tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-71458000998973563762024-03-05T23:45:01.014-08:00Amanda's JewelleryA rambling online help for those who are trying to find information on wire working and metal working. I love doing the articles but don't want the limitation of publishing in magazines, so here you are - Amanda writing free information on how I discover new techniques in my jewellery journey.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-8283963981259899402017-04-09T05:29:00.001-07:002017-04-09T05:29:40.142-07:00Researching New Techniques / Progress of a Pendant<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I have wanted to do a complex pendant that incorporates a number of weaves I have on my free tutorials page. Half to show off how the weaves can work so well together in a project but also as a challenge for myself to step up the game. The other goal was to create a pendant where the back is as appealing as the front, since many I've done definitely have a back side to remain hidden.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
One artist I always admired was able to trap a faceted stone in what looked like the <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9QTJ0S2hyMWNXbmc/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Basket Weave</a>. I've thought long and hard on the revere engineering of it and finally came up with the idea to combine the Basket Weave with the <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9VFA1Z0luaUR3eVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">X-Wrap weave</a>.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I started with 0.6 mm core wires and 0.3 mm coiling wire. For basket weave, half round wire is 1.0x0.5mm. I wanted a wire base that was fine and easy to mould with my fingertips. I used the three core wires to create a base or dish that the stone would sit in with X-wrap modified for 3 wires. I had to V-shape the middle one to create a pocket for the point of the stone since it isn't a flat cabochon.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBgggrGny0NrLdji4wHD5TSiehg6NnDODjGX3G5CGGSHS_fzVncvKy0uxi7O1VkT6_e9ik9DkN1DiDdJ5QyjgeBGtePdE_k_CGOn2gtImAZ4TyDk9JispyUHbIMTL83asPcKECtNtdncH7/s1600/jade_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="135" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBgggrGny0NrLdji4wHD5TSiehg6NnDODjGX3G5CGGSHS_fzVncvKy0uxi7O1VkT6_e9ik9DkN1DiDdJ5QyjgeBGtePdE_k_CGOn2gtImAZ4TyDk9JispyUHbIMTL83asPcKECtNtdncH7/s320/jade_01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I got so busy doing the top part of the wrap that I totally forgot to take a in step photo. 8 times. =P</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The idea here is the half round top wires from the Basket Weave are used to set the stone in place. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
With the two half round wires laying together, they are held by a coil 0.3 mm wire that then switches to <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9ck5fTktCNmlDRDQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Figure 8 weave</a> as the half round wires separate. I was not able to do the Figure 8 on the half round on the opposite side when the half round wires decreased and came together again. Kept slipping. So I started at the far end where the wires came together and worked backwards. Worked a charm as the coiling wire didn't slip.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUdJPD8bDhyphenhyphendhS4Qo9HQTRtfCD8LoMzp8H7oBN4qGPbqw5y5G1LaqMVPClqp695-gOaIKe2GxHkGCo1kPY_ZTvHlvy1ROp73Eu-DDgyl8hZjRW03ga7XmVF0GHlFY_-SScN-DxET6gR-2i/s1600/jade_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUdJPD8bDhyphenhyphendhS4Qo9HQTRtfCD8LoMzp8H7oBN4qGPbqw5y5G1LaqMVPClqp695-gOaIKe2GxHkGCo1kPY_ZTvHlvy1ROp73Eu-DDgyl8hZjRW03ga7XmVF0GHlFY_-SScN-DxET6gR-2i/s320/jade_02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
On top of the stone where the X-wrap ends, I anchored the coiling wire around the half round wire to the underside base. You can see the anchor points in the photo below.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvOzSN_K2hqiz9QBxt0wP2rs2VA1-oulIQvGhdu16UcApl_yrhVG66HsIkBGDxuAg4UeIceIfYbMBHsmY4EA1BCgJn0cW2GZW4kEUm0-5HQDvHOaSTWdw8cfJhpQrwgyey8za5XRFe3rMk/s1600/jade_17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvOzSN_K2hqiz9QBxt0wP2rs2VA1-oulIQvGhdu16UcApl_yrhVG66HsIkBGDxuAg4UeIceIfYbMBHsmY4EA1BCgJn0cW2GZW4kEUm0-5HQDvHOaSTWdw8cfJhpQrwgyey8za5XRFe3rMk/s320/jade_17.jpg" width="139" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The back of the stone setting is really interesting too. I also found as I progressed into a more complex pendant that the middle wire makes a great place to anchor or terminate other wires inconspicuously.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN__9oE2H72EGMscCMqIi8qXPwMXwWuffidZS598e_PdXjezc9gZl6UbSE3ou-4Squr4nH6s7uTWqnEdpnqLhjqbwH8ZqrwmfKv4hc6zEmLcsqbcQ5tcJjBF2Vd6WBK038-49tqWAbF66Y/s1600/jade_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN__9oE2H72EGMscCMqIi8qXPwMXwWuffidZS598e_PdXjezc9gZl6UbSE3ou-4Squr4nH6s7uTWqnEdpnqLhjqbwH8ZqrwmfKv4hc6zEmLcsqbcQ5tcJjBF2Vd6WBK038-49tqWAbF66Y/s320/jade_03.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Here are the actual original 3 stones I started with, three amethyst faceted ovals. I put a lemon quarts oval on each side to keep practising with different sized stones.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih-xBI4ZXsnW5JErPSV5GlrtLvqVm5uyVpfMELITljw94hBA1Eeg6NxW4-Bvexc9HmioAxowyNR4hbQRYt8zkO_7481-Dt0DY35-xaiBJhNVYcjfaJHNbb2I0n0Y8oc0W6sHTQjxL_uCnC/s1600/jade_03a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih-xBI4ZXsnW5JErPSV5GlrtLvqVm5uyVpfMELITljw94hBA1Eeg6NxW4-Bvexc9HmioAxowyNR4hbQRYt8zkO_7481-Dt0DY35-xaiBJhNVYcjfaJHNbb2I0n0Y8oc0W6sHTQjxL_uCnC/s320/jade_03a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifKUlIaEtABTpGiizo9swa4M0O-GrJjhkMmwZBqp-fY0BURcRYceRABJhKBSz3vw772psAtcAFobOTq2j7QPpqihgjVX1oJXIBktuLNNvecMkZgssuSYGlvPNAmP8j1h4b17FZpXYmKZeT/s1600/jade_03b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifKUlIaEtABTpGiizo9swa4M0O-GrJjhkMmwZBqp-fY0BURcRYceRABJhKBSz3vw772psAtcAFobOTq2j7QPpqihgjVX1oJXIBktuLNNvecMkZgssuSYGlvPNAmP8j1h4b17FZpXYmKZeT/s320/jade_03b.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The stones look green here, but the larger ones are yellow quarts faceted oval stones. I also found the narrow basket weave sections made for great bending points. After folding this one up, I fell in love with the shape of the negative space and decided to finish off the pendant as is.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjng7Sun7JOXw1QhgeWB3UIVr-8cxdXvlkek4C5FWDb7Gs6L8mTs9DA2vTmVixOm5sTezoMtRvDCsGcCDMHJgeJpq5C2Q1RkjzJSLphT8QOADoMIWWjNUCiIT_uvu-9A4fhaQyS3V4Kkx5-/s1600/jade_03c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjng7Sun7JOXw1QhgeWB3UIVr-8cxdXvlkek4C5FWDb7Gs6L8mTs9DA2vTmVixOm5sTezoMtRvDCsGcCDMHJgeJpq5C2Q1RkjzJSLphT8QOADoMIWWjNUCiIT_uvu-9A4fhaQyS3V4Kkx5-/s320/jade_03c.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The back is as interesting and appealing as the front.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Onto the next pendant, because originally I wanted to put the Jade carving into a pendant with the purple stones. So I hit my stone stash and found a tans/browns combination for a new pendant idea.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I got a bit carried away again and forgot to take photos. 10 hours later...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJbl5ogCSnsMeHcqD8j_9J1RLNbIo6zRjP4ilMbhBpeejXyivTO_4bxAvp53ONJC0XZs1hF5RL7VCytdMTNbGlrwCRFaSkyKvBFG0SOXSBgC3Z2Xbpj73uuBKIgBW37gkmi192O1BTu4Xp/s1600/jade_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJbl5ogCSnsMeHcqD8j_9J1RLNbIo6zRjP4ilMbhBpeejXyivTO_4bxAvp53ONJC0XZs1hF5RL7VCytdMTNbGlrwCRFaSkyKvBFG0SOXSBgC3Z2Xbpj73uuBKIgBW37gkmi192O1BTu4Xp/s320/jade_04.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
1st. I captured the jade stone in a 3 round <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9SEIxWU5VZlcxTW8/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">bezel setting</a>. I used 0.6 mm core wire and the 0.3 mm coiling wire again. The bezel frame was attached to the jade carving disk on the final rotation on compass points.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
2nd: I should have done the sunray / Zig Zag circular weave incorporating the core wire from the bezel setting - this would have given me 8 wire ends to play with. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
What I actually did next was to get straight into the stone setting Basket weave concept because I was so keen on it. So the bezel setting core wire was joined with 2 more core wires, the 2 half rounds and coiling and off I went. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So the 8 ends of the Sun Ray/Zig Zag circle joined with the 9 wires from the basket weave settings to make 17 loose wire ends I then had to tidy up.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwucdYdrC8MjlOULji9tUvzcaCLfBgNVqxV01Ttnci6WqCULNsDcg7AOogYTh1KC4KRZaqMIIFN4MRGZ_iZocjNZMFPnPPlyhn42uBiGbr5yfTxi_ffNG_9ITgyUTvX9gWoU5sRh-68_xb/s1600/jade_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwucdYdrC8MjlOULji9tUvzcaCLfBgNVqxV01Ttnci6WqCULNsDcg7AOogYTh1KC4KRZaqMIIFN4MRGZ_iZocjNZMFPnPPlyhn42uBiGbr5yfTxi_ffNG_9ITgyUTvX9gWoU5sRh-68_xb/s320/jade_05.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Oh, the sunray / zig zag circle weave is one I learned form the Nicole Hanna <a href="http://www.nicolehannajewelry.com/store/p129/Arabian_Nights_Pendant_PDF_Tutorial.html" target="_blank">Arabian Nights</a> tutorial I posted about in January 2017. I modified her 6 wire one to a 4 wire one for sanity sake. It ended up being a great base to which I could anchor other features or terminate wires.<br />
<br />
This is now representing 15 hours of work.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWW1jnyynJh2RSEHZh-J1i_AoNlUxPj2y9GNNfsnF68Fv1Hcmaw21PP6Xtq-C4dKfYUoTLZVHcx3M71WLxFWmr9Tv3XWGNBImYV2bTZWvrAAdmBZujixPkuOE4eXl60-So49lcDj3g50W6/s1600/jade_06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWW1jnyynJh2RSEHZh-J1i_AoNlUxPj2y9GNNfsnF68Fv1Hcmaw21PP6Xtq-C4dKfYUoTLZVHcx3M71WLxFWmr9Tv3XWGNBImYV2bTZWvrAAdmBZujixPkuOE4eXl60-So49lcDj3g50W6/s320/jade_06.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Here is the 17 armed <span style="background-color: #f8f9fa; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">septendec-apus in all its messy, spaghetti bowl glory. I was reminded a bit of Medusa or the live Devil's Snare vines from Harry Potter books when I kept getting coiling wire caught up in it all.</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBuv3lFIsH3Hh8pSnSVI4lXEIcIPF5y7UEaGB0wxszWFa-sx_WvctJqh1Kae425d1ACjp3oNQg1B4fi3i5sxWfGTWYLch5vjMqkwTLkL0U005U9Rigy1lvGbJnUFsE9oYaIVXA2PY_tQ1w/s1600/jade_07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBuv3lFIsH3Hh8pSnSVI4lXEIcIPF5y7UEaGB0wxszWFa-sx_WvctJqh1Kae425d1ACjp3oNQg1B4fi3i5sxWfGTWYLch5vjMqkwTLkL0U005U9Rigy1lvGbJnUFsE9oYaIVXA2PY_tQ1w/s320/jade_07.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
And sometimes hard work is interrupted by things like family or hunger. Waffles seem to sooth both....</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The next step was to start taming those 17 wires. I love weaves that use up a lot at once. A 3-core Figure 8 used 3 nicely. I also used a 2-core weave also learned in Nicole Hanna's tutorial - the weave one top right in the below photos.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz37BvGWxeEuRlkCZsXCGqnUIPDDXtE5UIjveGLg9Z6Yv9OFxk45b0tQQOel4TxVKORNKanfnSUWAauDdBDXJ-vgkOylyGuMX3V1RmclJfsLV69esYluQb3gV7xJzJMQkq49U9VWTXFoqH/s1600/jade_09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz37BvGWxeEuRlkCZsXCGqnUIPDDXtE5UIjveGLg9Z6Yv9OFxk45b0tQQOel4TxVKORNKanfnSUWAauDdBDXJ-vgkOylyGuMX3V1RmclJfsLV69esYluQb3gV7xJzJMQkq49U9VWTXFoqH/s320/jade_09.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLuc89XqlNl1bkAArKroLkrhWFbbJt154Kxchq3F0nUAO_ezHi065hfEu0DIz9fwCuxYjNBmbiocejLu3XHJJwniEwtRqOyD8LuVaAwpfWCXhwo617MTjxljQiQr8qqCCYj3Kji585gR5/s1600/jade_08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLuc89XqlNl1bkAArKroLkrhWFbbJt154Kxchq3F0nUAO_ezHi065hfEu0DIz9fwCuxYjNBmbiocejLu3XHJJwniEwtRqOyD8LuVaAwpfWCXhwo617MTjxljQiQr8qqCCYj3Kji585gR5/s200/jade_08.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
And covering up enough wire to be decorative is one thing. But the ends! What to do with the ends!! In the case of the 3-core Figure 8 weave, I coiled 2 core wires around one. Start with the core wire nearest the um, Live wire I guess? Then snip. The take the further core wire and keep coiling around the live wire - using coiling wire to hide things. I used that one wire to coil around the base of a spiral.</div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8zENhu_q7AyDaOsCBZz9QQgUGzXOwGMTGpbQ7SvhZWj4fNDQ0_Lb4nziSy2VUG4vZ6IEZKM5UvNxwH6Smvv6oJ6CvFz3dd-j4G1HHm14q3_-XhbA_QZ_LfyulZ1Scw9gtI46UnJ8QNZbV/s1600/jade_10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8zENhu_q7AyDaOsCBZz9QQgUGzXOwGMTGpbQ7SvhZWj4fNDQ0_Lb4nziSy2VUG4vZ6IEZKM5UvNxwH6Smvv6oJ6CvFz3dd-j4G1HHm14q3_-XhbA_QZ_LfyulZ1Scw9gtI46UnJ8QNZbV/s320/jade_10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Spirals are also a GREAT way to not only use up wire ends, but as anchor points. In the photo below, both spirals are working overtime. The beginnings have half round wire ends coiled up neatly. I also coiled another core wire on top of the half round coil on the top spiral in photo below. Spirals are also a great place to anchor ends of wires and then HIDE those spots. They should be locked into place though or they can catch on things and unravel. I've used a spiral to lock another one in place in below right side photo.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7pzkREZSS2eErHUF5kng92JynkaYOm6S5pt5sSQ7pPD9fTJA9gDnZsfhXFbt1G4fxa5KhjIPUNeDMZ2YwYSuJlDKAsIuekVWMZJFMQecOC3_i_eiBrJdnGdfc9oZSzV3TYGlVsD8lwrN4/s1600/jade_18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7pzkREZSS2eErHUF5kng92JynkaYOm6S5pt5sSQ7pPD9fTJA9gDnZsfhXFbt1G4fxa5KhjIPUNeDMZ2YwYSuJlDKAsIuekVWMZJFMQecOC3_i_eiBrJdnGdfc9oZSzV3TYGlVsD8lwrN4/s320/jade_18.jpg" width="275" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNlL3CbwqWTOAQsmoG5S7lRO0t60aplqx5w_aEDo8OOWobE7EGPrBnWznVHO2NQBy-CHrdTR-ogrzBoHRpysGMEInS7ksOiNDp_bVaEqocMeYUv3hib_hiUM0IX6IoVnMTqtl_ZDmmgGtL/s1600/jade_11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNlL3CbwqWTOAQsmoG5S7lRO0t60aplqx5w_aEDo8OOWobE7EGPrBnWznVHO2NQBy-CHrdTR-ogrzBoHRpysGMEInS7ksOiNDp_bVaEqocMeYUv3hib_hiUM0IX6IoVnMTqtl_ZDmmgGtL/s320/jade_11.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSf8PSiyjl0pKrXXnX-MzzHwbwwhCKRpzjx9OHLrtgySNXN58XG4UfcDUMA6vuf3TdCaS6tP94ul-_61PGbUk0NSW2QHF39Q_8Ez6b_d_r2LzL-1UGKqKUNbV5nu9lLtEQ3_HxK6HdJ-k6/s1600/jade_12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSf8PSiyjl0pKrXXnX-MzzHwbwwhCKRpzjx9OHLrtgySNXN58XG4UfcDUMA6vuf3TdCaS6tP94ul-_61PGbUk0NSW2QHF39Q_8Ez6b_d_r2LzL-1UGKqKUNbV5nu9lLtEQ3_HxK6HdJ-k6/s400/jade_12.jpg" width="266" /></a><br />
<br />
On one side, I used another 2 core wires (0.6 mm ones) to accent Tourmaline beads threaded on a 0.4 mm wire in a circle. This is to decorate the side without the set faceted stones. <br />
<br />
The 2-core Nicole Hanna weave was brought to the this side too since it was looking a little plain compared to the opposite side.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1rbq4bzsMOtlVX1TK34Y63ppqQEK8DiBEDox1tAoeRgg7t06lSzV7alYIhUViG6CNkaPTGdHasnMuXSYhXHu723FcGYXBHoFCpXBfmBQ6E_YJd3fN0c301I9kwgsjC6xBPs1NK53-wK8Z/s1600/jade_13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1rbq4bzsMOtlVX1TK34Y63ppqQEK8DiBEDox1tAoeRgg7t06lSzV7alYIhUViG6CNkaPTGdHasnMuXSYhXHu723FcGYXBHoFCpXBfmBQ6E_YJd3fN0c301I9kwgsjC6xBPs1NK53-wK8Z/s320/jade_13.jpg" width="288" /></a> On the "front" side, there was the 3 set faceted stones. The 3-core Figure 8 was chunky enough to balance the stones on the other side. I wanted a bit of dark on both sides of the pendant so I used another end to coil and trap a boulder opal bead in place to balance the dark smokey quartz.<br />
<br />
If you compare this photo to the right to the front above, you will notice an additional spiral at the bottom. This is the final end of the 3-core Figure 8 decoration. There is also a new spiral at the top which anchors the bail closed.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
3 more wires became the base of a 3-core X-wrapped Bail, but I kept the ends poking out on both sides of the pendant to use in spirals to hide the base of the bail which was looking a little rough on both sides.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8JNxZfsFKJTDUuEjPwx3yubxpV3k26krHvlcR1deVA6JfHDlZK9x-eYQI81roHgY7q7hfUATjdr2IExV5NDnNX-7BdDWtcvHPyEJzQJg7thiRcnEcMnwmQQw6unObYEmze8idJqKlbbY3/s1600/jade_19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8JNxZfsFKJTDUuEjPwx3yubxpV3k26krHvlcR1deVA6JfHDlZK9x-eYQI81roHgY7q7hfUATjdr2IExV5NDnNX-7BdDWtcvHPyEJzQJg7thiRcnEcMnwmQQw6unObYEmze8idJqKlbbY3/s640/jade_19.jpg" width="640" /></a> </div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The final front of the pendant. Another curly wire on top but otherwise finished.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBMBw4zRMhx2Sqdpn0nPgfOP0PPlPw5OB_77hoboPcfvPvHFJNiq_7l5b0wrjjXyIUahdLlVKcR_W6A8CQbV1L1JZ3gXlykHfjcC9bv2jNp-I9VVX5VqXacmdCUn5X_njvIHZVQTG9ZBWF/s1600/jade_14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBMBw4zRMhx2Sqdpn0nPgfOP0PPlPw5OB_77hoboPcfvPvHFJNiq_7l5b0wrjjXyIUahdLlVKcR_W6A8CQbV1L1JZ3gXlykHfjcC9bv2jNp-I9VVX5VqXacmdCUn5X_njvIHZVQTG9ZBWF/s320/jade_14.jpg" width="272" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
The final back side of the pendant. I balanced the 2-core Nicole Hanna weave on the right with a single core wire coiled with 0.4 mm wire and then another 0.6 mm core wire loosely coiled. </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
The bottom spirals are working overtime with about 5 other wires wrapped around them at the base - then hidden underneath. All up, both pendants represent about 35 hours of work.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxcUYvDFKlHAPYSiFi8CHf1j2kH6XnAeAcpml4G8Yws2TeiVd3CAI1rVoYIsGxCb22UW30jgs2ax9YxsgEKbSvYG-ciBOjMZiIe1aBgizKR-jS86EAYxePTbrDUHi8X83HxqxYRWk7cZTl/s1600/jade_15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxcUYvDFKlHAPYSiFi8CHf1j2kH6XnAeAcpml4G8Yws2TeiVd3CAI1rVoYIsGxCb22UW30jgs2ax9YxsgEKbSvYG-ciBOjMZiIe1aBgizKR-jS86EAYxePTbrDUHi8X83HxqxYRWk7cZTl/s320/jade_15.jpg" width="252" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Pretty darned pleased with the results here!</div>
<br />amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-55505390931797096572017-01-22T20:00:00.000-08:002017-04-09T04:25:21.344-07:00Using What You LearnOne thing I still struggle with today is how to further my skills without spending a fortune. I mean, while my jewellery is something I love to do passionately, I don't want to work it seriously enough to earn full time money. So there is not a lot of income coming in to support expensive education bills, and alas current trends are for local Tafe and Tech colleges to shed 'extraneous' curriculum like jewellery making so I would have to travel far indeed to take classes.<br />
<br />
On the other side of the coin, while face to face classes dwindle in traditional education avenues, the internet based education opportunities are opening up faster than I can keep up with new sources. Not only that, but as more competition comes to the market, the quality of content and instruction is improving vastly as everyone clambers for their little slice of the market pie.<br />
<br />
Enter me, Where to go, what to do! Between Youtube, Instructables, people's personal design blogs (like mine) and many new sources, jewellery (and crafting) enthusiasts have never had it so good for the education opportunities available all at a click of a few buttons. And let's be honest, it's always fun to learn a new thing!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQj3Pil5rZk54d06-1185uY3ZFy3bSCvcfqp4Miu65iwT1SHaOHWq4PRTwuOu2zg4FK69HE4NJu2ZXPGcsu576AyK42ceLtushxiY1n5T8Uu-3jvyPf6b18No2JZXDG6BgyyZNIIYW80Ba/s1600/tutorial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQj3Pil5rZk54d06-1185uY3ZFy3bSCvcfqp4Miu65iwT1SHaOHWq4PRTwuOu2zg4FK69HE4NJu2ZXPGcsu576AyK42ceLtushxiY1n5T8Uu-3jvyPf6b18No2JZXDG6BgyyZNIIYW80Ba/s400/tutorial.jpg" width="300" /></a>I was given the challenge of setting in sterling silver wire a carved heart stone without any holes and both sides were curved. I knew how I wanted the final pendant to look, slightly asymmetrical with deeper wire heart shapes to emphasise the gentle stone shape. But I have not tackled the 6 strands of wire wrapping before and .... what to do with twelve ends!<br />
<br />
My attention has been drawn to Nicole Hanna of nicolehannajewelry.com and her drool worthy tutorials. I chose the <a href="http://www.nicolehannajewelry.com/store/p129/Arabian_Nights_Pendant_PDF_Tutorial.html" target="_blank">Arabian Nights</a> for USD $6 as a good base line for learning that beautiful asymmetric, chunky weave look. It turns out that the ends just have to be cleverly nested behind the scenes as it were. I followed her tutorial faithfully and was very pleased with the result.<br />
<br />
I wasn't happy with the tiny tiny bail that is supposed to be a simple cut jump ring. I like the bail to be a complex part of the design and big enough for numerous different chains. So I was ready to attempt the heart setting now with my new skills.<br />
<br />
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Argentium
Silver in 0.8 mm and 0.4 mm round wire. This used about 50 cm of the
0.8 mm and 4-5 meters of the 0.4 mm. The stone I think is crazy lace
agate made into the shape of a heart.</span></span> <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4SYs-y9fgcDgWhlLJxpG29-p4wS9hFcVXZJuxLzp_S5hQosPZQErP9VV0kz_LAHlx9cyz4hu39BJv2AGRu6rVbc24F71Yqp8CCWAuPy3EITiogCAXlIg9zz9XwmXYAiFD56iJIcFG-c4g/s1600/Laura.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4SYs-y9fgcDgWhlLJxpG29-p4wS9hFcVXZJuxLzp_S5hQosPZQErP9VV0kz_LAHlx9cyz4hu39BJv2AGRu6rVbc24F71Yqp8CCWAuPy3EITiogCAXlIg9zz9XwmXYAiFD56iJIcFG-c4g/s400/Laura.jpg" width="290" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Then comes the exciting point when to really incorporate what has been learned in a tutorial. Another project I have wanted to do was create an interesting pendant where the front AND the back are both beautiful designs and tidy. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I found the in the Arabian Nights tutorial with 6 wires weave (I used 4 wires in my pendant) was very handy for creating a base onto which I could attach, anchor and terminate wires.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiisj0vDvrphG3J-Cu4duBWHWrRYV-Hp2DTN4uzCP1wLDUn-StusYJC7jWrwRPXH-7mUkUHBzSYsvyJx7DtFoJEwY7p4zvV4qy6QWUGfzZuNuJZqae8n9gm5uZAaojxJaMmLJ2dg1z2oV5q/s1600/jade_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiisj0vDvrphG3J-Cu4duBWHWrRYV-Hp2DTN4uzCP1wLDUn-StusYJC7jWrwRPXH-7mUkUHBzSYsvyJx7DtFoJEwY7p4zvV4qy6QWUGfzZuNuJZqae8n9gm5uZAaojxJaMmLJ2dg1z2oV5q/s320/jade_04.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
I also used the two wire weave from Arabian nights on the right side below.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF43bxFrFRIAbQjACOtIg9VnAV0u8wwjAt0eQknaAKsXk9UUUAVUDSXV5p3VvUHIRx7DSf6rL41o7I-vIP65VK6rDbGXlOI30OaHlDoq_JjTmIA8vlHClZtm9D_VkFZKVzet7kvfTRYx7c/s1600/jade_15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF43bxFrFRIAbQjACOtIg9VnAV0u8wwjAt0eQknaAKsXk9UUUAVUDSXV5p3VvUHIRx7DSf6rL41o7I-vIP65VK6rDbGXlOI30OaHlDoq_JjTmIA8vlHClZtm9D_VkFZKVzet7kvfTRYx7c/s320/jade_15.jpg" width="252" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Learning new techniques and then incorporating them into your own designs is a very exciting part of continued learning. I'm already thinking about my next tutorial. Unsure if I mean making one for my blog or buying one though!</div>
<br />amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-44185799968010939932016-12-11T16:14:00.000-08:002016-12-11T16:14:05.195-08:00Request Next PostHi Everyone,<br />
<br />
I know that I don't have a lot of followers or views, but thought I'd put it out there that if you have a question about metal work, wire work, beading, sewing, knitting that I might be able to answer - drop me a line and I'll see what I can do for you!<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
Amandaamandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-91455721118451484422015-08-18T05:28:00.000-07:002016-08-30T16:03:39.554-07:002016 Cold Connection Workshop Aussie Bead Retreat Supplier List<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u><b>Supplier List for the Forster August 2015 Aussie Bead Retreat</b></u></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u>Findings and Wire</u></span></span><br />
<ul>
<a name='more'></a>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> There are many premade commercial cold connections findings available if you know where to go. Here are a list of fun bits and bobs I have found over the years:<br /> </span></span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Brass 20 mm round blank stamping tags: <a href="http://stores.ebay.com.au/mailleaddiction/">http://stores.ebay.com.au/mailleaddiction/</a></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">25 Random Mixed Gears Cog connectors: <a href="http://stores.ebay.com.au/mailleaddiction/">http://stores.ebay.com.au/mailleaddiction/</a></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bronze tone flat filligree flower connections 15 mm: <a href="http://stores.ebay.com.au/mailleaddiction/">http://stores.ebay.com.au/mailleaddiction/</a> </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Naked Copper Wire: 2.0 mm, 1.5 mm, 1.0 mm, 1 m x 1.5 mm half round, tubing, copper and brass sheets: <a href="http://aemetal.com.au/">http://aemetal.com.au/</a></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Naked Copper Wire available in Australia on 100 gram (4 ounce) spools at Over the Rainbow: <a href="http://www.polymerclay.com.au/">http://www.polymerclay.com.au/</a></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Small Screws and bolts: Any local hobby shop for remote control planes and cars or here <span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #26a83c; font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">www.microfasteners.com.au <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"></span>www.nbhc.com.au (Where I purchased them) </span></span></span></span></li>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="color: #26a83c; font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="color: black;">Fire Mountain Gems in the States now has fixed USD $15 postage to all orders coming to Australia</span>: <a href="http://www.firemountaingems.com/">www.firemountaingems.com</a> </span></span></span></span> </li>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u>Tools </u></span></span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Many metal working tools are available for a relatively budget price at: <a href="http://stores.ebay.com.au/jamessplace?_trksid=p2047675.l2563">http://stores.ebay.com.au/jamessplace?_trksid=p2047675.l2563</a> who is located in Australia! </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Screw Punch</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Vintaj Straight Cut Metal Shears (probably similar available at Hardware store)</span></span></li>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">metal she<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">ars come in left cu<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">t, right cut or straight cut - so as you cut, the seam veers to the <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">*insert left, right or straight respectiv<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">e</span>ly*.</span></span></span> </span></span></li>
</ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Ball Pein hammers: Bunnings Hardware</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Wedge Pein hammer: Bunnings Hardare</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Rubber Mallet: Bunnings Hardware</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Planishing Hammer: <a href="http://www.jewellerssupplies.com.au/">http://www.jewellerssupplies.com.au/</a></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Fine metal files: $2 shop, J-Car or Bunnings Hardware </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Metal working tools also available in Australia at Over the Rainbow: <a href="http://www.polymerclay.com.au/">http://www.polymerclay.com.au/</a> </span></span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> <u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Alternative ideas</span></u></span></span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Brass washers: Bunnings Hardware Store</span></span></span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Stainless Steel Thin Filligree Pendant Stampings: <a href="http://stores.ebay.com.au/mailleaddiction/">http://stores.ebay.com.au/mailleaddiction/</a></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Gunmetal Black 12 mm Flower Filligree Bead Caps: <a href="http://stores.ebay.com.au/mailleaddiction/">http://stores.ebay.com.au/mailleaddiction/</a></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Copper Rivets with premade Head: <a href="http://www.polymerclay.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=19049%7B6%7D265" target="_blank">http://www.polymerclay.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=19049{6}265 </a></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Many different decorative fancy commercial rivets: <a href="http://www.polymerclay.com.au/">http://www.polymerclay.com.au/</a></span></span><br /><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></span><br /><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span> </span></span><ul>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-47661214118249047222015-05-25T21:27:00.002-07:002015-08-24T14:45:43.167-07:00Hammer Facts<br />
Hammers come in many shapes and sizes for jewellery making. There are many specialised hammers, too many to mention. The big question is which to use when? How many does one need to buy in
order to successfully do cold connections or other jewellery
techniques? Those are very loaded questions indeed.<br />
<br />
Some basic understanding of use, shape and result is useful to know what hammer needed for the job required. One important thing to keep in mind, do not use highly polished, mirror finish hammer faces to strike punches or stamps as this will mar the surface of the hammer. Then when using the same hammer face later on, that mark will transfer to metal being struck. Use the hammers for their appropriate use!<br />
<a name='more'></a>
<br />
<b>Rivet Hammer </b><br />
<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/Rcx1U_8IFVP-BcuuPQ7e6oCADYi6wL7ePQ56BrpERsrXgqKGsrxWAUQ9ZfEDT1lCaJqyj_vS5OKnJdWfDTFQsMUY4l2FENTSbKfa4lJqxToc4LZ-4W7YkmSPPzl3G_NaNNBYi23tWq8t--dV" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="122px;" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/Rcx1U_8IFVP-BcuuPQ7e6oCADYi6wL7ePQ56BrpERsrXgqKGsrxWAUQ9ZfEDT1lCaJqyj_vS5OKnJdWfDTFQsMUY4l2FENTSbKfa4lJqxToc4LZ-4W7YkmSPPzl3G_NaNNBYi23tWq8t--dV" style="border: medium none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="144px;" /></a><b> </b><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">This hammer has typically a flat face and a pointed wedge face. </span><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">A rivet hammer can be petite at less than 3 ounces/75 grams or significantly larger at over 1 pound/500 grams. </span>The wedge face is used to first start the rivet flare. As this face is long and thin, it can also be used to put in long line texture into sheet metal or thick wire. </span><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<br />
<span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> </span></span><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The
flat face is often very flat without any concave curve and is used to
finish the rivet flare process. If metal is struck with the flat face
at a diagonal, the sharp edge will leave a long line mark in the metal
surface. </span></span>Do not use this hammer to strike stamps or punches.</span><br />
<span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span>
<span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>Ball Pein (Peen) Hammer</b></span><br />
<span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e54-5a86-06db-1a18bfa7bf4e" style="background-color: transparent; clear: right; color: black; float: right; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><img height="89px;" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uI1WlswPYWYB1_1uGK9Gi4yY8BeDscIqBf4z2T8nSLF-7DYGHt2H2IyMcbDyTuzzryHlLQlcQV8crQ3TO90wkmOgrqV2QQYZiBkqRCYyUog0ecUpDLSK5RMjgqfMzP7eX6bCJaZkEnLQFr2T" style="border: medium none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="168px;" /></span><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">A budget hammer with many uses. One face is completely flat like a nail hitting hammer and can be used to start the rivet flaring process. If metal is struck with the flat face at a diagonal, a curved line will divot in the</span><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> metal surface. The other face is a half circle useful for creating tube rivets, divots, bumps and hammered texture in metal work. If this is a cheap hammer and the flat face surface is not important, you can use this hammer face to strike punches and stamps. </span><br />
<br />
<span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Ball Pein hammers are so useful because they are readily available at any hardware shop, cheap and the flat face can be marked easily with metal files to become specialised texture hammers for metal design. </span><br />
<span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span>
<b>Chasing or Repousse Hammer</b><br />
<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/BSaEBK6arEsKm6IzlBn8uTcq07_jM324rNjdDMqJ-AplDXblu93bGjF8TPnC0hM6brg8OildG8_Y8ObxIbQ2eCh7YxqoiXIGGLMF-tsinCqWx_0ueD7mQzVyKsEb6kO-lGFK9JgQm14SCoqJ" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="115px;" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/BSaEBK6arEsKm6IzlBn8uTcq07_jM324rNjdDMqJ-AplDXblu93bGjF8TPnC0hM6brg8OildG8_Y8ObxIbQ2eCh7YxqoiXIGGLMF-tsinCqWx_0ueD7mQzVyKsEb6kO-lGFK9JgQm14SCoqJ" style="border: medium none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="168px;" /></a>This hammer has a characteristic very wide flat or slightly concave curved face and a half circle face. The flat face<b> </b>can be used to flatten curved metal, smooth out rough edged texture in metal and riveting. The wide concave face means that the hammer will strike flat and leave smooth edges. It is harder to hit this face on a diagonal to leave a hammer face side mark in the metal. <br />
<br /><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e47-4ba9-647f-12b76bdc7a3c" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span>
The half circle face is the same as on a ball pein/peen hammer. This face has a tight convex curve and will leave very small, deeper divots in metal surface. Used for creating tube rivets, divots, bumps and hammered texture in metal work. Do not use this hammer to strike punches or stamps.<br />
<br />
<b>Repousse Wedge Hammer</b><br />
<span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e55-c205-4e96-423e2046345a" style="background-color: transparent; clear: right; color: black; float: right; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><img height="66px;" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CXiQ98PvGnnrEFsMQ3CIYrX-spKGjrMnXp5TEdpXVcEVJIENEl7UdLKFjiTm1q5TVyMmkVbeM0seNvnWGwwckXaWPPs-u0h_lbT5Pq3kmvECvxuwaaNazLy2yJkAt2jGSS2j86R77aGAeKv8" style="border: medium none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="180px;" /></span>Just an example of how specialised hammer heads can get. This would be used to introduce curves into sheet metal like into a bangle shape or create 3D relief pictures in sheet metal.<b> </b>Do not use this kind of hammer to strike punches or stamps!!! <br /><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e47-4ba9-647f-12b76bdc7a3c" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Brass Dead Hit Hammer</b><br />
<span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e57-670c-009c-d727984acef9" style="background-color: transparent; clear: left; color: black; float: left; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><img height="108px;" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZLWjLJGc6Sjm-D54zXIrqwgatHyY9SdKHxjiL85EQBkLagOCpLU9InErxq4kbeeoHR2szgKnreJ2pbfQZa9CpqGqfDuMsOQOVnXZ85JlhLp8uNdJDZXH2PSh5VULlXI2sU1qbqHiPtqselD0" style="border: medium none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="192px;" /></span>Finally, the hammer with the sole purpose of striking stamps, disc cutting, coming and punches! This hammer is heavy, often over 1 pound/500 grams. <b> </b> The head is soft brass which will take the damage first, saving expensive cutting, punching, stamping or curving tools from damage.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>How Hammers Move Metal</b><br />
<br />
Each hammer face interacts with metal differently pushing metal aside at the point of impact. Many hammers will easily mark soft steel blocks too, so take care to aim and pay attention to the angle the hammer face is held when striking.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Shallow Concave Face and Flat Curveless Faces</b><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/YTQnGSK5r9gefqA34zSTipsTEs26J3fTf_5Sw0GtGWE_XNgN5XHeAFJ2WVoBTNGicxNE7ALALNZfcLNVOb147NlGKYyMXD7zIx4MpJ0TX_VCUeQFQd_gxOlb-6s-b8q9U4FbtiJYGx4_0dtZ" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="167px;" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/YTQnGSK5r9gefqA34zSTipsTEs26J3fTf_5Sw0GtGWE_XNgN5XHeAFJ2WVoBTNGicxNE7ALALNZfcLNVOb147NlGKYyMXD7zIx4MpJ0TX_VCUeQFQd_gxOlb-6s-b8q9U4FbtiJYGx4_0dtZ" style="border: medium none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="166px;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Concave Face Metal Movement</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2HRlA-PoXjHjgNzXGAU_FqLlQ0Cwt0vnY7sSZS_7F_i5oadjGsV06FWouc0BB0A1wuBX4A3n4rVBuPk7654RFiB08v0GbYeDqXY_qaPYrZDCKGFBs8PWQge8KJo4EdTw1zvwI7Ob2bf5XFbV" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="117px;" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2HRlA-PoXjHjgNzXGAU_FqLlQ0Cwt0vnY7sSZS_7F_i5oadjGsV06FWouc0BB0A1wuBX4A3n4rVBuPk7654RFiB08v0GbYeDqXY_qaPYrZDCKGFBs8PWQge8KJo4EdTw1zvwI7Ob2bf5XFbV" style="border: medium none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="228px;" /></a><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e59-a68c-2287-5d8eeb55aa3e" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The shallowly domed wide flat face of a hammer will push metal out in every direction leaving a shallow divot and gentle shaping. </span><br />
<br />
If held at a severe diagonal, the rounded edge of this hammer will leave a half moon mark in the surface of the metal. <br />
<br />
A completely flat hammer face will also move the metal in the same direction as the diagram at right. The only difference is that any metal surface that extends beyond the hammer face will also have the sharp edge straight line marks too.<br />
<br />
<b>Deep Concave Face</b><br />
<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/JZnPRvZZ9HWut-RejrKn5HaQYsOK8RRy1KiXHcbGIi_x71pGBfekIy0nJFheZfnVlCx6kCft4RE28n1VUhkwvTT4SJq-9lgTFUw0rYGixz-1qnuPb4BwIBVGT0a9N0f605GWJXRRJMEFQJzz" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="147px;" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/JZnPRvZZ9HWut-RejrKn5HaQYsOK8RRy1KiXHcbGIi_x71pGBfekIy0nJFheZfnVlCx6kCft4RE28n1VUhkwvTT4SJq-9lgTFUw0rYGixz-1qnuPb4BwIBVGT0a9N0f605GWJXRRJMEFQJzz" style="border: medium none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="125px;" /></a><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e63-8959-044b-f023ada1c153" style="background-color: transparent; clear: right; color: black; float: right; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><img height="189px;" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/AW5IzBvhgwnJ9LWikFT1ZxCYNifIZejyyshZUnYR6Tmj8XckQlENFF5iLyRQ2L4tr7bIZMDCbl6K2uTD_XZ1PaSS_oie66ThAa5lyfFV1hgDRnZDXvWdnNE2RPXBvjGrka237o8EKE9Eu0j2" style="border: medium none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="148px;" /></span><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e63-68af-6c0b-25991078a1a4" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span>A deep semi circular concave face like the Ball pein hammer is so much fun to play with!<b> </b> This face also pushes out metal in all directions from point of impact but leaves a much deeper, smaller circular divot in metal. It works well to spread tube rivets open since the curve gently pushes the tube open. This face is perfect for texturing metal surfaces, just have patience to strike the surface a LOT for a truly even pattern.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b> </b><br />
<b>Wedge Face</b> <br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CkrxFmbEd0mpOjSFfxC2QIT1irWOz-Hu0sVWvssoKbD-xETRZTFCSbt_4sZ34hWeFoFuw62Cg28bRtpgWkybtP97c3iRZvkJ-6_dp-iHSW3z-fMAe4v-j_xnbYf8BfjkUDvdDajuRMDDxQQQ" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="163px;" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CkrxFmbEd0mpOjSFfxC2QIT1irWOz-Hu0sVWvssoKbD-xETRZTFCSbt_4sZ34hWeFoFuw62Cg28bRtpgWkybtP97c3iRZvkJ-6_dp-iHSW3z-fMAe4v-j_xnbYf8BfjkUDvdDajuRMDDxQQQ" style="border: medium none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="189px;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Way the Wedge spreads Metal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The
long wedge curved edge </span>has a<span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> side profile of a U shape rather than the complete circle of a concave face. The face is completely curved but the edges can sometimes be left sharp on more budget tools. </span><br />
<span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">This face will cause the metal to move
perpendicular to the face of the wedge and leave a long line divot.
The line divot will be deeper if struck with greater force. Great for giving unusual textures to sheet metal or gauge wire
components.</span><br />
<br /><span id="docs-internal-guid-40b748d2-8e3c-1d4f-4064-e7f4d1a47dc2" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span>
This shape can help introduce a gentle bend in wire if held at an angle while striking the wire. Just take care not to leave divots in your anvil or dapping block too! <br />
<br />
<b>Etching with a Hammer</b><br />
<br />
It was mentioned that budget hammers with flat faces are excellent for tweaking. If you like the look of etching or some complex regular textures, these can be carved into the flat face of a cheap hammer with grinding sand belts, dremel cutting discs, drills and metal files.<b> </b>The sharp edges of a flat face can be sanded back into a gentle curve so the texture is the only thing making contact with the metal surface.<br />
<br />
Martha Aleo of Ornamento Blog gives a <a href="https://ornamento.wordpress.com/2011/02/10/more-ideas-for-making-jewelry-tools/" target="_blank">great visual for this concept and using other tools to texture</a> along with some other handy DIY tips.<br />
<br />
amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-66705163226705448962015-05-24T20:02:00.001-07:002015-08-24T14:46:12.948-07:00Take Care of Metal ToolsThe biggest bane of having my workshop downstairs in our defunct garage, is the damp. The back walls are exposed bedrock that weeps water for weeks after heavy rains so no amount of anti-humidity products or mechanisms are viable.<br />
<br />
The roughest effect is the rust on my budget steel tools. Budget because my hobby exists on a minimalist income since I am not full time professional. Not only does it make the tool look awful, but soft steel becomes pitted with bumps and divots as the steel is oxidised into rust. But these tools can exist happily with a bit of care.<br />
<a name='more'></a>
<br />
<b>Anti-Rust Protection</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Steel tools exposed to damp air will rust, it is inevitable. It does not matter if it is a very expensive hammer to a cheap as chips dapping block. And there is a cheap solution! Protect these items with a thin coating of machine oil and store in a small, air tight container.<br />
<br />
After using, use a machine oil pre filled lint free rag to rub a new thin coating onto the item and store back in its container.<br />
<br />
If you will use item (say an anvil doming block) to hammer a project before soldering, the oil coating will need to be removed or it will affect how the solder flows. Remove with methyl spirits in a clean rag. Then reapply the thin coating of machine oil before storing the block.<br />
<br />
It may be an extra, slightly messy step when working on the fly but this extra bit of care will prolong the life of budget tools! And hopefully in the near future your own income will allow the purchase of top range tools that are a bit more hardy.<br />
<br />
<b>Rust Removal</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Disaster strikes when the drawer is opened and that dapping tool is coated in a rough surface of red rust. All is not lost though if the rust is a thin coating and the required smooth surface not pitted.<br />
<br />
First off: use eye protection!<br />
<br />
Tools required: Sand paper in various grits and elbow grease (or a flexible shaft and rubber/sand disks to speed the process up)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YBhmPf9jC4_qwNlXoUHYl69ao_50dZjCBWYX-xW03JnsrShNFibnU7ZTM48RLgMi44bS7MIo8uf6z_WKZxD8mGL_EhRVc-AgWz4tcCVDwb4y2Yuro7Lg-63wwpPJmOo08Vt1Npp05hG3/s1600/habras1a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YBhmPf9jC4_qwNlXoUHYl69ao_50dZjCBWYX-xW03JnsrShNFibnU7ZTM48RLgMi44bS7MIo8uf6z_WKZxD8mGL_EhRVc-AgWz4tcCVDwb4y2Yuro7Lg-63wwpPJmOo08Vt1Npp05hG3/s1600/habras1a.jpg" height="136" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">25mm Hasbras Disks Course to Fine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdUIYug47wRFE13lEmefVrqIbKeUJoiZR3IhyD9esGTqKflM5MPsaij0xd-2PvFHsTgJbfJD7oSvPZznFxgEffBKPJ4R5own6JSbVmxU18NTzMFTZjviPI4erXQJcBJDfcqZimf7yw9Kl/s1600/habras1d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="118" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdUIYug47wRFE13lEmefVrqIbKeUJoiZR3IhyD9esGTqKflM5MPsaij0xd-2PvFHsTgJbfJD7oSvPZznFxgEffBKPJ4R5own6JSbVmxU18NTzMFTZjviPI4erXQJcBJDfcqZimf7yw9Kl/s200/habras1d.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Compare size of 25 mm and 19 mm wheels</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I used the 25 mm Hasbras polishing wheels (see <a href="http://amandajewls1.blogspot.com.au/2013/01/more-on-habras-disks-for-polishing.html" target="_blank">my blog post</a> from Jan 19 2013 for more details) which are very course grit to assist. I went straight to the fine blue wheel which is akin to 400 grit sand paper as this would leave a soft brushed surface that will not transfer any texture to the surface of projects. The hand held component of the Dremel flexible shaft firmly fixed into a vice grip allowed me hands free access to the spinning disk.<br />
<br />
I carefully manoeuvred each steel object (in this case, my entire dapping tool set) from every angle possible against the spinning disk brush and it slowly brushed off the rust. On the curved part of the dapping punch I kept the rusty item spinning and the disk removed rust keeping the nice curved lines. Fortunately the curved ball parts of my dapping punches were not pitted, but the shafts did have a bit more pitting. I just kept working on each spot until all signs of red rust were gone and I had polished, shiny steel left.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoM-6We1AcVR6C8sH-MdT7xIAH_NZo3inKnlezvEVZ680Q4Fot9vvw0mDPmDYUuUut44KSy-we5TmSk3Q5ypriTrcuezWPHzjoA1AK76GUK-Qj8emreUcxU27PFFFIOpthqj8n4jZz-vWI/s1600/habrasshredded.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoM-6We1AcVR6C8sH-MdT7xIAH_NZo3inKnlezvEVZ680Q4Fot9vvw0mDPmDYUuUut44KSy-we5TmSk3Q5ypriTrcuezWPHzjoA1AK76GUK-Qj8emreUcxU27PFFFIOpthqj8n4jZz-vWI/s1600/habrasshredded.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Less than 5000 RPMs!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One thing I forgot was to keep the RPMs down on the flexible shaft tool, as these rubber wheels cannot handle too much force before the teeth flicking off. Fortunately I remembered and the blue wheel only lost a couple of the teeth, unlike a previous one in my 19 mm Hasbras disk set.<br />
<br />
After rust is removed, wash hands, brush off item carefully to remove dust and use a rag to put on a light coating of machine oil all over the item. Store newly polished steel tool in a small air tight container to prevent further rusting.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Anvil/Doming Block Divots</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Of course, the first thing to mention is to NOT hit your soft steel anvil/doming block with other hardened steel tools to prevent divots in the first place. If working with a hammer, take careful aim and ensure that hammer edges are not missing the project metal straight onto the doming block. If using punches of any kind, use a soft brass mallet, rubber mallet or heavy wooden mallet to strike the punch so that the mallet takes the damage and NOT the anvil/doming block. Support the doming block with a rubber mat between the block and desk to take some of the force. And hit more gently and more often, work softly with more control. All of these efforts will keep your anvil/doming block from becoming marred in the first place.<br />
<br />
I cannot give a step by step on this portion as I handed my very dented block over my capable husband at this stage given the sanding belt tool is his, and much bigger than I am used to working with. He held the block flat faced and firmly against the rougher grit sanding belt and just ground away until all divots were gone. This does expose new, raw steel which is eager to rust so again, coat with a light coating of machine oil with a lint free rag and store in air tight container.<br />
<br />
The same concept works for all hand held tools like wire cutters, pliers and more.<br />
<br />
<br />
Good luck and stay rust free!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-19253714489997242082014-12-15T18:12:00.000-08:002014-12-15T18:13:56.637-08:00Head Pins and Spirals<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://cdn.instructables.com/FFH/LHKU/GJQEJ9BY/FFHLHKUGJQEJ9BY.MEDIUM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://cdn.instructables.com/FFH/LHKU/GJQEJ9BY/FFHLHKUGJQEJ9BY.MEDIUM.jpg" height="200" width="101" /></a></div>
Headpins are an expensive finding to buy when you are making dozens or hundreds of dangles for a piece of jewellery. Not to mention the frustration of locating a head pin the exact shape or style that is required for the specific bead in the right metal. Especially when working with fine holed beads, what a nightmare!<br />
<br />
With a wire cutter, round needle pliers and some continuous wire, a head pin can be made in under a minute for a fraction of the cost, especially if using silver, gold filled or gold wire.<br />
<br />
<h2>
</h2>
<a name='more'></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://cdn.instructables.com/FRP/1W2J/GJQE8RFV/FRP1W2JGJQE8RFV.MEDIUM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://cdn.instructables.com/FRP/1W2J/GJQE8RFV/FRP1W2JGJQE8RFV.MEDIUM.jpg" height="195" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
Basic head pins out of continuous wire still have a small hole at the bottom. It's a half basic loop that has been pinched closed. It isn't a well formed eye pin, though. An eye pin should resemble a lollipop with a perfect circle at the end, not a wonky oval.<br />
<br />
<h2>
<a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Head-Pin/" target="_blank">Head Pin Instructable Link </a></h2>
<br />
<br />
The head pin above is the starting point of how to do a spiral as well so a good starting point for practicing first.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://cdn.instructables.com/FG3/80B1/GJQED1LV/FG380B1GJQED1LV.MEDIUM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://cdn.instructables.com/FG3/80B1/GJQED1LV/FG380B1GJQED1LV.MEDIUM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://cdn.instructables.com/FG3/80B1/GJQED1LV/FG380B1GJQED1LV.MEDIUM.jpg" /></a><br />
I really like to use spirals as a head pin, and just use spirals in my design in general. The extra little glitz of metal uses up space and is a cost effective way to emulate another metal bead. Spirals also make interesting dangles off hinges and clasp connections.<br />
<br />
The next instructable I've created starts off with a basic spiral and then shows how to make them into head pins.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>
<a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Spiral-Dangles-and-Spiral-Head-Pins/" target="_blank">Spiral head Pin Instructable Link</a></h2>
Happy Wiring!<br />
<br />
<table border="1" style="width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://cdn.instructables.com/FCD/P0NL/GJQEJ9BV/FCDP0NLGJQEJ9BV.LARGE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://cdn.instructables.com/FCD/P0NL/GJQEJ9BV/FCDP0NLGJQEJ9BV.LARGE.jpg" height="320" width="271" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A tight spiral makes a great dangle by itself.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://cdn.instructables.com/FHK/E3X7/GJQEJ9CI/FHKE3X7GJQEJ9CI.MEDIUM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://cdn.instructables.com/FHK/E3X7/GJQEJ9CI/FHKE3X7GJQEJ9CI.MEDIUM.jpg" height="320" width="295" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spiral with space between the coils.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ2qpgCt5CtCFsp4zwCkDjukJ0pnK5GZTIDPhXnzGSG5YdoqMNVsPc0UQ99w-3hJ5OdwCHECTfFAzq6jKICogqgGOgushlmVlaYjRaMZExrlAHZrsS5tRsZ6dAOfVvc0or83zyg5kFmGvK/s1600/earrings_spiral_brass.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ2qpgCt5CtCFsp4zwCkDjukJ0pnK5GZTIDPhXnzGSG5YdoqMNVsPc0UQ99w-3hJ5OdwCHECTfFAzq6jKICogqgGOgushlmVlaYjRaMZExrlAHZrsS5tRsZ6dAOfVvc0or83zyg5kFmGvK/s1600/earrings_spiral_brass.jpg" height="291" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A take on earrings worn by<a href="http://allyourtrekarebelongto.us/shesbad.jpg" target="_blank"> Lieutenant Ohuru</a> of original Star Trek.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvXcqJAgCuKvb3ocVTLB8RXWDklbWwxVn5dKYRnCgclpemBMmwowrFllTvAY45_4YVbJtnd-t7uC1wM4GquzeED4n5_kyoqb3BGVo84yAV7dveleHPXo9pD58xrGdqhIz43TS8-c1vnSil/s1600/earrings_orbital.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvXcqJAgCuKvb3ocVTLB8RXWDklbWwxVn5dKYRnCgclpemBMmwowrFllTvAY45_4YVbJtnd-t7uC1wM4GquzeED4n5_kyoqb3BGVo84yAV7dveleHPXo9pD58xrGdqhIz43TS8-c1vnSil/s1600/earrings_orbital.jpg" height="320" width="227" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Open spirals give spaces to fill up with beads.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtFKStmOU12Y6ac4M_3kk1stX6YYxLvj2GZw4Sxp0soVgkQXNI-7iialXYlvf9au-tIkbvp_TZ1ZMOxCoreN3UyU_Lq1fH-FguEUWHiFrdaj8uOW1x7GL-9FLG9T8xWqFXUIe4yB_BYVq7/s1600/pendant_silver_sunset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtFKStmOU12Y6ac4M_3kk1stX6YYxLvj2GZw4Sxp0soVgkQXNI-7iialXYlvf9au-tIkbvp_TZ1ZMOxCoreN3UyU_Lq1fH-FguEUWHiFrdaj8uOW1x7GL-9FLG9T8xWqFXUIe4yB_BYVq7/s1600/pendant_silver_sunset.jpg" height="312" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spirals here hide where two main components (bail and bottom coil bead) are twisted together and tidy up loose ends.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilX56nIAj6fvKRzh7LxMp4QQI0grn6YULln5bW2w6RgWwTJ_9kGfleFZfhEzDBm3ceeOdo7PnxMJICzS4tOKggTFg5-LRZ81y5t7TSrfTXXTaRCga05zF9HEDn68jwARzHvbZ5ee1GNBbY/s1600/leaf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilX56nIAj6fvKRzh7LxMp4QQI0grn6YULln5bW2w6RgWwTJ_9kGfleFZfhEzDBm3ceeOdo7PnxMJICzS4tOKggTFg5-LRZ81y5t7TSrfTXXTaRCga05zF9HEDn68jwARzHvbZ5ee1GNBbY/s1600/leaf.jpg" height="220" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spiral in action being used as a fibular pin head.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-90146139975076066182014-12-15T17:32:00.002-08:002014-12-15T17:40:55.168-08:00Hammered Clasp<h2>
<b>Hammered Clasp</b></h2>
<a href="http://cdn.instructables.com/FBC/VJUR/GJQE8R48/FBCVJURGJQE8R48.MEDIUM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://cdn.instructables.com/FBC/VJUR/GJQE8R48/FBCVJURGJQE8R48.MEDIUM.jpg" height="200" width="196" /></a>I am a sucker for textured, hammered, twisted, tortured wire. I love it, the whole rustic look. I was first exposed to the whole concept when I was looking at a website by Connie Fox of <a href="http://www.jatayu.com/">www.jatayu.com.</a><br />
<br />
This clasp is best made from 1.00 mm (18 gauge) or thicker wire and is easy to make if you have a few tools around the place: ball pein hammer, round needle nose pliers, flat needle nose pliers, fine metal file and steel plate or concrete to hammer against. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
I originally got the idea and love for this clasp from Connie Fix's art work and she produced a tutorial on how to create a coiled bangle with the clasp in part two of her tutorial on<a href="http://www.jewelrymakingdaily.com/media/p/5096/download.aspx" target="_blank"> how to make a coiled bangle</a>. But I believe in showing my own work where I can, and give credit to where I got inspiration or learned a technique.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://cdn.instructables.com/F5N/4QD8/GJQED0BI/F5N4QD8GJQED0BI.LARGE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://cdn.instructables.com/F5N/4QD8/GJQED0BI/F5N4QD8GJQED0BI.LARGE.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
All images on this blog entry are of my own work.<br />
<br />
The clasp can be made in petite sizes or large, bold sizes depending on
the wire gauge used. Smaller clasps can be made on 1 mm (18 gauge)
round wire and larger clasps made on 1.5 mm (14 gauge) round wire. I
would not suggest using any smaller than 1 mm (18 gauge) round wire as
the wire becomes too thin to remain sturdy.<br />
<br />
The wire used for this clasp is continuous wire, a commodity usually
kept by wire artists. The clasp is easily created once the technique is
learned, readily available in the workshop and low cost compared to
commercially purchased bold clasps.<br />
<br />
The clasp works equally well in brass, copper, silver, gold filled and gold wire.
The clasp allows construction straight from the wire spool to minimize
metal waste.<br />
<br />
I recommend practicing the clasp in copper or brass for the first time before using silver or gold.<br />
<br />
This is a perfect first wire project to learn a few new techniques such as:<br />
Work hardening<br />
Hammered Texture<br />
Basic Loop creation<br />
Spiral creation<br />
Flattening wire<br />
Filing<br />
Sanding<br />
<br />
This clasp is great for necklaces or bracelet closures where the weight is sufficient to keep the project closed. On a bracelet, it is important to make the hook part quite round so that the bracelet does not brush against something and come open.<br />
<br />
If thick enough wire is used, and the hook portion completely closed into a basic loop style closure, this could even be used as a bag finding if you make your own bags or purses out of other crafts.<br />
<br />
<h3>
<a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Hammered-Wire-Spiral-Clasp/" target="_blank"><b>Link to my Instruactable Tutorial</b></a></h3>
<br />
This was the first coiled bangle I made, including my very first attempt at a hammered clasp.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZYlZQwD_qVYPWDMrE4XfVLwBdQoMcHzCuA4Mnh4I8bi1Ummswr7fhAwMHH6u7XdPYXdanwrD-ZqJCqc9HjCH8D-6DhHeqmfKW581PFwvABrVdkdu8U0tQz8gUste89aVg3nyBbDM3bJGZ/s1600/copperbracelet_t.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZYlZQwD_qVYPWDMrE4XfVLwBdQoMcHzCuA4Mnh4I8bi1Ummswr7fhAwMHH6u7XdPYXdanwrD-ZqJCqc9HjCH8D-6DhHeqmfKW581PFwvABrVdkdu8U0tQz8gUste89aVg3nyBbDM3bJGZ/s1600/copperbracelet_t.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I got better over time and it is now one of my preferred clasps to use along with a toggle clasp.<br />
<table border="1" style="width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeggEQh7QB4uO_D0H6GwTPfFils7xHo-GAbG3Fm39EEGvXBy9oBI_xrys_Qh_vkAQAWpy_-pI43bUo2fnxIYynLlofk84lh-XFSkzglhO3Sw3QC4mcId23sC_yaInHIPukOATFf_VB_e13/s1600/bracelet_silver_aqua.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeggEQh7QB4uO_D0H6GwTPfFils7xHo-GAbG3Fm39EEGvXBy9oBI_xrys_Qh_vkAQAWpy_-pI43bUo2fnxIYynLlofk84lh-XFSkzglhO3Sw3QC4mcId23sC_yaInHIPukOATFf_VB_e13/s1600/bracelet_silver_aqua.jpg" height="179" width="320" /></a></div>
</td>
<td><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYicmNcpWN2bNFYoqFi_HRq4TfDMMR1zDk8UXnQaWMz5Awc4ma6o1p2OZypfX2Ajfxv9OBBAhHDWeCTxu6YWpqiag2r3kT8PN7Q4XM5_FvLBV4sJLjm-6ftStQ68Y0PLnqsHhhbKh-r86L/s1600/bracelet_wrap_brass_green.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYicmNcpWN2bNFYoqFi_HRq4TfDMMR1zDk8UXnQaWMz5Awc4ma6o1p2OZypfX2Ajfxv9OBBAhHDWeCTxu6YWpqiag2r3kT8PN7Q4XM5_FvLBV4sJLjm-6ftStQ68Y0PLnqsHhhbKh-r86L/s1600/bracelet_wrap_brass_green.jpg" height="244" width="320" /></a></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi54ecEfi_OGc2G05Q7cEoOHN5F5ME9_to9REuQqnXTn7fMfa2x6OLTM18Uh5flZIKlEdS6S5X4afsbuDS8fQ6p1h0c8QCys1JETtm3Wzn0xM-eK0IHMXpRH5yfSbtEpqICR3atq7BioKDt/s1600/bracelet_copper_persian.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi54ecEfi_OGc2G05Q7cEoOHN5F5ME9_to9REuQqnXTn7fMfa2x6OLTM18Uh5flZIKlEdS6S5X4afsbuDS8fQ6p1h0c8QCys1JETtm3Wzn0xM-eK0IHMXpRH5yfSbtEpqICR3atq7BioKDt/s1600/bracelet_copper_persian.jpg" height="320" width="297" /></a></div>
<br /></td>
<td><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2QRZ8AXHjrijeZbz7_VlYgQInjwZK75fe-5UU35FxwYCBA-8hDueozDm_wccvd1wQ3DW_krL29GVbOrJcFRumW8A_BN5PMle7R0ZdvfMhGlrFZZHCmE__zxG9AvPxb1_l7yH5Pw-Y3wM/s1600/bracelet_chain_brass.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2QRZ8AXHjrijeZbz7_VlYgQInjwZK75fe-5UU35FxwYCBA-8hDueozDm_wccvd1wQ3DW_krL29GVbOrJcFRumW8A_BN5PMle7R0ZdvfMhGlrFZZHCmE__zxG9AvPxb1_l7yH5Pw-Y3wM/s1600/bracelet_chain_brass.jpg" height="235" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK6Fq1LR6Tm9dDAqp5nyo19IuwJbCFy91YpKJ3oea_UVp5y0jzMxZv_J2tbwNqLLoNC47LFgLATXv5PjBSxIKnn3GcOweFxKMJkNUgtqoVn9ZcuvDCtPMhCWoGhQ1UL4t6nKk3yUWGlDig/s1600/bracelet_wrap_brass_green_t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK6Fq1LR6Tm9dDAqp5nyo19IuwJbCFy91YpKJ3oea_UVp5y0jzMxZv_J2tbwNqLLoNC47LFgLATXv5PjBSxIKnn3GcOweFxKMJkNUgtqoVn9ZcuvDCtPMhCWoGhQ1UL4t6nKk3yUWGlDig/s1600/bracelet_wrap_brass_green_t.jpg" height="246" width="320" /></a></div>
</td>
<td><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMGa3dykg14sr2f9vbnsAF6-6-hMyZF04LX7YdBVwgqOstfIHSyYGxi4IObwlVQNfW4nkE9sPCeaobAlnk1yfWL3tZSGCN0d9xOswCnlSitT2xO54tkBhzsMH3QIqAvoPSlQQWSEOi5uNm/s1600/bracelet_wire_brass_polymer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMGa3dykg14sr2f9vbnsAF6-6-hMyZF04LX7YdBVwgqOstfIHSyYGxi4IObwlVQNfW4nkE9sPCeaobAlnk1yfWL3tZSGCN0d9xOswCnlSitT2xO54tkBhzsMH3QIqAvoPSlQQWSEOi5uNm/s1600/bracelet_wire_brass_polymer.jpg" height="280" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b></b></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-52859939780183560542014-05-18T06:23:00.000-07:002014-06-06T22:55:39.105-07:00Awkward Bezel Setting<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrv1e3sA2KyjoDaDbumVG_osupA-c_dfQjp8m6e9ZVMMG1kWPiRYBPXJFQ03JFjJNfZaOrK3UU0Ko74faKHFVGc12TrgH4hNM6ufVlb-UUH5YZyvUiLM-DkNhqHb9M1wFV2VKCwU1d0IrW/s1600/cathshell.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrv1e3sA2KyjoDaDbumVG_osupA-c_dfQjp8m6e9ZVMMG1kWPiRYBPXJFQ03JFjJNfZaOrK3UU0Ko74faKHFVGc12TrgH4hNM6ufVlb-UUH5YZyvUiLM-DkNhqHb9M1wFV2VKCwU1d0IrW/s1600/cathshell.jpg" height="200" width="193" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">In the beginning there was a snail </span><span style="font-size: small;">operculum (that's door to us laypeople). And this shell wanted setting, because a client paid me to do so. However, I have never set an awkward shape or sheer size like this - asymetrical yes, but not where one side is twice as thick as the other side with a bulky bottom sticking out.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">At 2.5 cm x 3.25 cm (1 in x 1.3 in), the shell will test my silversmithing skills. So I charged less to the client, as I typically do when a project will push my boundaries and give me a chance to learn new skills. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Please note:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This is not a how to on creating a bezel setting in silversmithing, more the journalling of my boundary pushing steps.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">No settings below have been cleaned up. This is the deep and dirty of silversmithing. </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYai8_nN6NgeJAtngb1PPg7iqRFHWrWBxG8_uMoCqIaIP7K-eWiuzKmXNV6yo30xAp0cIghiDR36kmIR3vqCXPAJgg1U3axCP9nxMMDO-Q8LFqFE3Jl8dtTNZro1OMmzrIsWr2FwvgaSuT/s1600/a_bezel1back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYai8_nN6NgeJAtngb1PPg7iqRFHWrWBxG8_uMoCqIaIP7K-eWiuzKmXNV6yo30xAp0cIghiDR36kmIR3vqCXPAJgg1U3axCP9nxMMDO-Q8LFqFE3Jl8dtTNZro1OMmzrIsWr2FwvgaSuT/s1600/a_bezel1back.jpg" height="175" width="200" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Try #1 Back</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Bezel setting attempt #1 </span></b></span></h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Materials: </span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">3 mm tall 0.3 fine silver bezel strip</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">2 mm round silver wire as backplate</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hard solder </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Lately, I have tried to scrimp on silver by using thick wire flattened as the base plate. This has worked well on the smaller (under 10 cm/0.4 in) stones I have set.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I also assumed a 3 mm bezel strip would be enough to trap the sides (both thick and thin) provided the back plate is thin enough to just catch the thicker side.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I have not soldered such a large expanse of silver before and use a mini torch on butane gas. I went through 2 full fills on the torch tank before I realised the silver was too big and the fire proof ceramic tile was sucking the heat away from the solder. Out came my broken charcoal block after remembering where I'd stashed it after a flash back to early lessons. </span><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTv_BPU-E9V919-WW7D8tVE4N57-Ovoa5RKWLSsv4FR-EVlcf0wwr61YVLTz7MdoAnOVsqrFhjPXWvhbg6uEf-OGZ7tgnZD9-8o6nXcmstiso6HsFvU9FUOBbTsHsLJdlBf-50Y99wpSX8/s1600/a_bezel1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTv_BPU-E9V919-WW7D8tVE4N57-Ovoa5RKWLSsv4FR-EVlcf0wwr61YVLTz7MdoAnOVsqrFhjPXWvhbg6uEf-OGZ7tgnZD9-8o6nXcmstiso6HsFvU9FUOBbTsHsLJdlBf-50Y99wpSX8/s1600/a_bezel1.jpg" height="141" width="200" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Try #1 at side</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I quickly re-discovered the miracle of soldering on top of a charcoal block rather
than ceramic. The block bounces more of the heat
back onto the larger bezel setting! (<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Yes, I can hear the "well duh" coming through</span>). </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Finally all of the solder had melted and the bezel was stuck down. I used a LOT of solder, too. All looked good until the last minute when the bezel seemed to do a slight readjustment movement. Didn't think about it though.</span><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAXrFwZhNe2wnLOZZmLkxBResRVVP2Nner7uxQgwORGyAJwsSR7FLLUCBeeyGte5BQesQrLNneua-jdHXnVYrvPrgKmqTb24KCKxl1YGq2OTvA3Up72-ueTvqZS99xOzmUX1HPW_mlx_3-/s1600/a_bezel2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAXrFwZhNe2wnLOZZmLkxBResRVVP2Nner7uxQgwORGyAJwsSR7FLLUCBeeyGte5BQesQrLNneua-jdHXnVYrvPrgKmqTb24KCKxl1YGq2OTvA3Up72-ueTvqZS99xOzmUX1HPW_mlx_3-/s1600/a_bezel2.jpg" height="135" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Offending base plate wire sticking up</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> After turning off the torch and quenching the piece, I spent time cleaning up the outside of the bezel. Only, the shell wouldn't sit in the bezel like it should. On closer inspection of the bezel, I noticed that the wire end I had flattened and used as the back plate had twisted and now stuck up the side of the bezel wall - creating a bump.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In the land of the well tooled I am sure there is a dremel attachment that would, with patience, grind it away, but I noticed that unless I completely shave away all of the backplate, the 3 mm strip was too short to catch the larger side. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Oh boy. Start again....</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Try #2: The Ring</span></h2>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnIfFAf__Tz41giFRtG7RX_SgbCH_7jTJ_c8EOIrsuAqc373Bs1Mtarc1-dPAX6pSAAi9NeQx3baS-rUFuLcsAf0Z_pESOWWUQII_uN7GFxvJMTVMf3NkYXHet6bks7uUOA8E52L60Jocj/s1600/a_bezeltry2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnIfFAf__Tz41giFRtG7RX_SgbCH_7jTJ_c8EOIrsuAqc373Bs1Mtarc1-dPAX6pSAAi9NeQx3baS-rUFuLcsAf0Z_pESOWWUQII_uN7GFxvJMTVMf3NkYXHet6bks7uUOA8E52L60Jocj/s1600/a_bezeltry2.jpg" height="183" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Flattened back plate</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Materials: </b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> 5 mm fine silver Bezel strip</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">2 mm sterling silver round wire as base plate</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hard solder</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">planishing hammer </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I made the bezel strip around the shell and set aside. Next the 2 mm round wire was made into a circle that fit exactly under the bezel strip. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In theory I hammer it flat slightly and the bezel strip should sit smoothly on top with a bit of lip inside and outside of the bezel wall to act as the back plate, as works for the small stones I have set in the past.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7OwEwlyLzvqdTcTcGXOw9AoN7OJpXct9WzDn00kfSA63vmpUr9obCK6mUkClUR7M0JeoaooiwspSXmOMhX-qvIpL3KyG3m8xB2n4c4LmiFXS3Oi6kTnqPsiUgV8mmbN7Br0qJFDnGyglh/s1600/a_bezeltry3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7OwEwlyLzvqdTcTcGXOw9AoN7OJpXct9WzDn00kfSA63vmpUr9obCK6mUkClUR7M0JeoaooiwspSXmOMhX-qvIpL3KyG3m8xB2n4c4LmiFXS3Oi6kTnqPsiUgV8mmbN7Br0qJFDnGyglh/s1600/a_bezeltry3.jpg" height="200" width="180" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Too Big</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Note to self, there is such a thing as too much aggression therapy session on the hammer whacking away on the wire. My wire ring grew so much (with my planishing hammer) the inner diameter of the oval was bigger than the outer diameter of my bezel strip. Woops.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I did not even bother making a new one and went upstairs, calling it a day.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The bezel strip was left for a third try.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><br />
<h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Try #3: The Almost Right</span></h2>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Materials:</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">5 mm fine silver bezel strip (already prepared)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">1 mm thick sterling silver sheet for backplate</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">hard solder</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Third time is the charm, right? You would think so. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Going back to basics, going old school, doing it the right way from the start. Solder bezel to plate, cut plate out, cut middle out and done.</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6iXRUCqDL96gGjFiSEOmcwLmpKT7gB_Z7ASL3m7s6i4MBdjfTH_BBfocsCRuMnZADLR0H_W91FrfXuwuFTmceXuNZwWXhefpHAG6Qlcqv-phafZ0x4RK2Y16zIqR7QGTA4DIIcUl8kwJ_/s1600/1_plate.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6iXRUCqDL96gGjFiSEOmcwLmpKT7gB_Z7ASL3m7s6i4MBdjfTH_BBfocsCRuMnZADLR0H_W91FrfXuwuFTmceXuNZwWXhefpHAG6Qlcqv-phafZ0x4RK2Y16zIqR7QGTA4DIIcUl8kwJ_/s1600/1_plate.jpg" height="136" width="200" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Try #3 Looking Good</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The prepared earlier bezel strip was soldered to a large plate of sterling silver sheet. I put the whole thing on top of the charcoal block and the solder melted beautifully to that mirror glint at the seam of strip/sheet. Normally, it is suggested to make the back plate as small as possible so to not heat up unnecessary. I did not remember this of course until after I looked at the expanse of silver that required removal.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I was so happy and full of glee! Everything working to plan. A few hours later, said tongue in cheek, the bezel setting was released from the rest of the sheet metal with my coping saw. Forgot how tough 1 mm silver sheet is!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimdi95vof4cpeKBu4f_cBbJoNXcANb1ZjmXYlqSC82m4QoPLw1YyJ29dilYWJIZgGZhzcRHQIoGY7vIYfi_c3p5ydTjMSLg52iOrh9gfxnjFp7S2aCry0W3LZ7J59uGeceLE0uXHo6lu1R/s1600/4_sanded.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimdi95vof4cpeKBu4f_cBbJoNXcANb1ZjmXYlqSC82m4QoPLw1YyJ29dilYWJIZgGZhzcRHQIoGY7vIYfi_c3p5ydTjMSLg52iOrh9gfxnjFp7S2aCry0W3LZ7J59uGeceLE0uXHo6lu1R/s1600/4_sanded.jpg" height="135" width="200" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Try #3: Sides cleaned up</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I used my ... um... wooden joint wedgie thingie (<span style="font-size: xx-small;">yes this IS a technical term in my workshop</span>). Just did a search, it's called a Ring Clamp with wedge. So my term isn't much worse in verbage. Anyway, I used the ring clamp to pin the bezel setting down tightly enough to file off the back plate lip even to the strip, leaving a seamless cup from viewing on the outside. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Took a while and kept forcing the wedge a little too tightly so it bent the bezel strip down quite a bit. But the outside looked beautiful sanded down with 280 grit sand paper when finished. I used pliers and other rounded objects to coax the bezel strip back into a good shape and it still fit the shell! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiapur6rKyCBcB4f4FTupp-9ep491mwZzk49FU_vOnWmLCeQaoNu6lHi-KVUZuxUt0GXjACm1CC3g3QIuMOWRyJ5Mg6ghOBMPli9bcSpCNxOex8YUzCbtVReqqrWjWSwHWgWyu9bI-3jlLw/s1600/7_back.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiapur6rKyCBcB4f4FTupp-9ep491mwZzk49FU_vOnWmLCeQaoNu6lHi-KVUZuxUt0GXjACm1CC3g3QIuMOWRyJ5Mg6ghOBMPli9bcSpCNxOex8YUzCbtVReqqrWjWSwHWgWyu9bI-3jlLw/s1600/7_back.jpg" height="178" width="200" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Try #3 Back</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The centre was punched lightly and the drill press put into use to make a hole in the centre of the back plate for my coping saw. I have decided I am not very fine tuned with this tool either (out of practice mostly) but I got a relatively even looking oval cut out which required MORE sawing for the back of the shell to stick through. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_KfKNaGN66weHQ9kpJcefeQUHLNDkCcvri0KPc-TAyjeBm2wkf07sKqovBiFysW2BWy5fglSmDgztv57T0TddLKkQDLVPUZQ38SX0SohNhS1Xk-MoswwcuET5o2PH1EGu6NRSLd_wrgPT/s1600/5_clean.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_KfKNaGN66weHQ9kpJcefeQUHLNDkCcvri0KPc-TAyjeBm2wkf07sKqovBiFysW2BWy5fglSmDgztv57T0TddLKkQDLVPUZQ38SX0SohNhS1Xk-MoswwcuET5o2PH1EGu6NRSLd_wrgPT/s1600/5_clean.jpg" height="162" width="200" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Try #3: Setting almost finished</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">When the outside was filed away and the back plate hollowed out, there sat the perfect bezel setting for the shell. Just needed to file a little deeper in the back plate on one side.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNX1uF2IGouETH3T3DiGZYWgcj_pHEUE9jCJvLztkM06zIMr54sm4fhiIRuaRdzMj04IduXj8PeKzubpocvSoudOB6KMORFpK2pgX9dPbxaUHBAHFt_Hcz0oZ8-tbBkru0n1l-CQjkfs3/s1600/6_broken.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNX1uF2IGouETH3T3DiGZYWgcj_pHEUE9jCJvLztkM06zIMr54sm4fhiIRuaRdzMj04IduXj8PeKzubpocvSoudOB6KMORFpK2pgX9dPbxaUHBAHFt_Hcz0oZ8-tbBkru0n1l-CQjkfs3/s1600/6_broken.jpg" height="141" width="200" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Try #3: Cracked Bezel</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">And inspected closer to notice... the bezel strip had been worked so much by the ring clamp squishing down that it has split and crumbled in my hands. And not just a small split, but 2.5 mm deep split that brings the lip below where the snail shell will lie. Absolutely no way I can save this setting for this particular shell.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I tried to make the back plate shallower for where the thicker side sits, but it will not make the bezel sides even - even if I can get it to sit lower. And a bezel slightly taller on one side than the other will be noticeable.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Words cannot say the amount of frustration here!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><br />
<h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Try #4: Hopeful Success</span></h2>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_tm-_yw5LvCEhRg707JPE_QFS1waT6VMFigIg8ipOEnYiSyz7CNxDwZo7XiJBhgB_txdNhFZA7pMfxPC5puKeYwKkii2TLvZUcfHfbczLxS1-Ss3jTQqLYQaHPMfBDezXTfU6C2Wdo9eP/s1600/final_first.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_tm-_yw5LvCEhRg707JPE_QFS1waT6VMFigIg8ipOEnYiSyz7CNxDwZo7XiJBhgB_txdNhFZA7pMfxPC5puKeYwKkii2TLvZUcfHfbczLxS1-Ss3jTQqLYQaHPMfBDezXTfU6C2Wdo9eP/s1600/final_first.jpg" height="320" width="234" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Try #4: Bezel Strip Soldered</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Materials:</b> <br />
5 mm x 0.3 m Bezel Strip<br />
0.5 mm sterling silver sheet <br />
5 mm ID x 1 mm sterling silver tube (bail) <br />
Hard solder<br />
Easy Solder <br />
<br />
A new bezel strip soldered was crafted - but at last minute the ends overlapped just as the hard solder flowed. Just kept moving forward. Carefully forming the strip around the shell again, the overlapping became a bonus because the ring fit perfectly. <br />
<br />
Back on top of the charcoal brick, the bezel strip soldered beautifully onto the thinner (and pre-shaped) back plate within 1 torch tank worth of butane. Hard solder flowed to the mirror flash all around, ensuring a solid and firm attachment. At this point, I went upstairs calling it a day. Didn't want to test the luck too much!<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK0W-qBTAnfqdGLyxthACH7jNEcf4xlRG_RylwnEqvhj9qT8Gr7YW_bM_LJCWWni7moYA7l1UT13H5ze-ekpwPieukAQrIRFOUTNVdJsgmEypMKPlM8uxvDY41B6eWu_T-X0KLpbuMKcUt/s1600/final_filed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK0W-qBTAnfqdGLyxthACH7jNEcf4xlRG_RylwnEqvhj9qT8Gr7YW_bM_LJCWWni7moYA7l1UT13H5ze-ekpwPieukAQrIRFOUTNVdJsgmEypMKPlM8uxvDY41B6eWu_T-X0KLpbuMKcUt/s1600/final_filed.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Try #4: A light trim</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A few days later, it was time to cut the back plate excess away with the coping saw and file down the resulting lip. The 0.5 mm thick sheet cut like butter with the coping saw compared to the 1 mm thick so I was able to control the saw much better. I did not use the ring clamp (with wedge) at all this time around. That bezel strip is going to be pristine when it comes time to setting.<br />
<br />
The filing took quite a while and a lot of elbow grease as I took it easy with a light touch. Using a small fine metal file, I removed the bulk of the lip and then moved down to a paddle pop stick wrapped with 280 grit sand paper to do the fine filing and remove previous file bite marks.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6MpT8v1RPQ2nPCNvyCA9b0wnqmmUENprZ124JHwoHTvdAlnwPyRZS2NoKRcvg9bTQV2mHsKfREzvh9BuYD7gJV9kBBYo3NUhg_QCJkH4XtQ2Ur9MgFk4_oIfEqPmJsJYMiyYPUPy_RK1m/s1600/final_front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6MpT8v1RPQ2nPCNvyCA9b0wnqmmUENprZ124JHwoHTvdAlnwPyRZS2NoKRcvg9bTQV2mHsKfREzvh9BuYD7gJV9kBBYo3NUhg_QCJkH4XtQ2Ur9MgFk4_oIfEqPmJsJYMiyYPUPy_RK1m/s1600/final_front.jpg" height="320" width="309" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Try #4: Front Shot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Time was spent with the Hasbras rubber wheels and dremel to really smooth out the file marks from the side of the bezel. I used the drill press to make a hole into back plate then moved to the coping saw again to cut out the inner oval. Try #2 pendant was used as a template for the oval hole. <br />
<br />
The shell was used in place to test and fine tune the back plate hole until the shell sat with a consistent 1 mm lip all around under bezel edge. Now time for the bail tube.<br />
<br />
I used a right angle level to make sure the bit of tube I cut out was mostly square on both ends (and filed out a few skidding coping saw marks). Easy solder was sweat soldered to the middle of the tube and then centrered onto the top bezel strip seam for final soldering.<br />
<br />
At last minute I decided to add just a smidgen more of easy solder on top of the join, just in case. The two pieces stuck together nicely with a bit of flux and the solder flowed beautifully. Glad to see things working right! Unsure if the bail is a little sideways, and really not fussed at this stage.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn5aj-oV_bYDRJxmhnn1DqKb2j65IQYyNhfLZAy7uE2LcsyYg4D5SpR4bFYDnkdUu1nJWxHw0d65OU9c4w2WZmXseO_Obh2sGLXV7Ozu5qloq4n-AIWOuOf7fwD6XkPICrarBo4jgMrzm9/s1600/final_back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<table style="width: 300px;">
<tbody>
</tbody></table>
<table border="1" style="width: 300px;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDS8NoFNcQDvVrc-oDpF97rVO3HLMhiI-oiCR16AwL6pqOdDrXX6a9SP7eOngrvY8cfiAO_NZXelsTCplINCAc12o6FTFyrzOu7VF1IcE817Q1EKgs3QbF5ICM-5Ru4bBRB3W9J1L0HB4y/s1600/final_side.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDS8NoFNcQDvVrc-oDpF97rVO3HLMhiI-oiCR16AwL6pqOdDrXX6a9SP7eOngrvY8cfiAO_NZXelsTCplINCAc12o6FTFyrzOu7VF1IcE817Q1EKgs3QbF5ICM-5Ru4bBRB3W9J1L0HB4y/s1600/final_side.jpg" height="320" width="125" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Try #4: Side View</td>
<td><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn5aj-oV_bYDRJxmhnn1DqKb2j65IQYyNhfLZAy7uE2LcsyYg4D5SpR4bFYDnkdUu1nJWxHw0d65OU9c4w2WZmXseO_Obh2sGLXV7Ozu5qloq4n-AIWOuOf7fwD6XkPICrarBo4jgMrzm9/s1600/final_back.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn5aj-oV_bYDRJxmhnn1DqKb2j65IQYyNhfLZAy7uE2LcsyYg4D5SpR4bFYDnkdUu1nJWxHw0d65OU9c4w2WZmXseO_Obh2sGLXV7Ozu5qloq4n-AIWOuOf7fwD6XkPICrarBo4jgMrzm9/s1600/final_back.jpg" height="320" width="307" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Try #4: Back View</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Pendant is pickling and still needs setting and final polish. But it is done!<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlqVug26b4Ygx0BzNFY34ErzjxnL5XLKu0AesP2VPgPW2YKYHOX0yD2l6x4d4sjkoWB_GQugIlz1cU-DftcCm989s7E9KQV7DP2fBV-bzl04uujC_EEQtMnx5vrr_ilur5KvyIKhktIAT-/s1600/cath_finalback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlqVug26b4Ygx0BzNFY34ErzjxnL5XLKu0AesP2VPgPW2YKYHOX0yD2l6x4d4sjkoWB_GQugIlz1cU-DftcCm989s7E9KQV7DP2fBV-bzl04uujC_EEQtMnx5vrr_ilur5KvyIKhktIAT-/s1600/cath_finalback.jpg" height="320" width="298" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD32jxAgfYuFcSMP6oAV9szsl9uUN-YhGNXI1DrJFvf3IvYBlO8T79MBP-4rLU-H9X9pG2pBmA7_G9OsInUkdlbyIgKAR0ftdhx7yAwJg2_jOg7U4dodcDdAokSpfH1qfRFIpKpWYzic54/s1600/cath_finalfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD32jxAgfYuFcSMP6oAV9szsl9uUN-YhGNXI1DrJFvf3IvYBlO8T79MBP-4rLU-H9X9pG2pBmA7_G9OsInUkdlbyIgKAR0ftdhx7yAwJg2_jOg7U4dodcDdAokSpfH1qfRFIpKpWYzic54/s1600/cath_finalfront.jpg" height="320" width="304" /></a></div>
amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-9629820009260189052014-05-18T04:55:00.001-07:002014-05-18T06:26:36.669-07:00Studio Heath Showcase<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMwRPyeervUSDrIPlQOuqhxard4fcwrdraBshyEQjKRcI0WIRr5g7mBjY1LgPr2InJyaCo9ZRMazUa1CeQTdaOq_MfWB6XBc9VvFLtcvoRHW-D7dtnKkeMjQR_fFomj65-rxyJj2OLsEGL/s1600/pendant_copper_red.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMwRPyeervUSDrIPlQOuqhxard4fcwrdraBshyEQjKRcI0WIRr5g7mBjY1LgPr2InJyaCo9ZRMazUa1CeQTdaOq_MfWB6XBc9VvFLtcvoRHW-D7dtnKkeMjQR_fFomj65-rxyJj2OLsEGL/s1600/pendant_copper_red.jpg" height="200" width="146" /></a>At the beginning of my wire working fetish, I wanted keenly to be able to capture a stone in wire work and learn more about the "rainbow wrapping" being done by various artists in Colorado, USA in 2005. I searched for a good, comprehensive tutorial to buy that would not only teach me the foundations of some good wire working but also enable for me to make the complicated ideas I had in my head for jewellery.<br />
<br />
Step in Remy of www.studeoheath.com featuring her wonderful work. She made the most amazing tutorial on exactly what I was looking for in the Woven Sculpture Pendant.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.studioheath.com/tute003.php">http://www.studioheath.com/tute003.php</a><br />
<br />
<br />
As described on the Studio Heath website
<br />
<blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;"><i>This tutorial is a thorough STEP-BY-STEP tutorial.</i></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><i>It is 66 pages long and contains a whopping 197 photographs!!!!!</i></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><i>Well over 100 hours have gone into creating the pendant, photographing, photograph-editing, writing, proof-reading, text editing and re-editing to bring this tutorial to life.</i></span></blockquote>
And words do not lie. Printed out, this tutorial is quite a chunk of paper to bring around with you but oh so worth the while.<br />
<br />
The pictures are close up, clear and with very clear instructions in text. Tips on how to hold 8 wires and 2 pliers effectively and not become a spaghetti bowl mess of twisted knots are absolute gems for the student.<br />
<br />
I changed the actual item that I crafted to suit the materials I had on hand. So instead of setting a stone with prongs (of which I did not have prior knowledge) I set a large bead so that I could more of my energy focus on the construction and many weave techniques I learned in this tutorial.<br />
<br />
Most importantly, the instructions tell you how to deal with many different wire endings sticking out at random angles deftly and elegantly to end with a beautiful pendant. I still wear this pendant from time to time though it was my first (but not last!).<br />
<br />
I have since gone on to my own style, but still cannot help but use techniques I learned from Remy's tutorial!<br />
<br />
Best USD $25 I ever spent!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguf95yp5FTC2KTuN7heevuTd1B_aaAcTGlFhyphenhyphen3XBLgmcNZ6kFdls7CnGXRssJK-kAe-jZC_5tlqxEoS1OIHmyfhbmfuXMEG8_-jtpVzt9t6kChVE-qjDS7WMgcr0lN-3TxkdPWfyOw83qd/s1600/pendant_copper_apatite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguf95yp5FTC2KTuN7heevuTd1B_aaAcTGlFhyphenhyphen3XBLgmcNZ6kFdls7CnGXRssJK-kAe-jZC_5tlqxEoS1OIHmyfhbmfuXMEG8_-jtpVzt9t6kChVE-qjDS7WMgcr0lN-3TxkdPWfyOw83qd/s1600/pendant_copper_apatite.jpg" height="320" width="254" /></a><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfMbE2-s5T80VfmTJUJJ3-BXqKXy8MFRmlPtOA5MNVg4ipMNJBs0wnfZnTeNOdBGUk0EfEJkqb4Xrq_LGCkfEXUbshwSgqvov_Yzztc3PNm6ccVx7JB-gtT_YIYFiOaLXtkjvVilLUSzu/s1600/ring_silver_star.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfMbE2-s5T80VfmTJUJJ3-BXqKXy8MFRmlPtOA5MNVg4ipMNJBs0wnfZnTeNOdBGUk0EfEJkqb4Xrq_LGCkfEXUbshwSgqvov_Yzztc3PNm6ccVx7JB-gtT_YIYFiOaLXtkjvVilLUSzu/s1600/ring_silver_star.jpg" height="212" width="320" /> </a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz_Joj3MOq2e4mbH7vkzKVYDNZwIwUAq-tfaYP035hE7TXNEsXAWGtdW_Prt5jbCGg19U_op4VDT0-ZF1ETX7xxQ_3s6oHl9IVIhSIPp0NOsGgAS5iqXFO1w8XdZ9ybPmpUAKCEdNlRAa2/s1600/pendant_copper_opal3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz_Joj3MOq2e4mbH7vkzKVYDNZwIwUAq-tfaYP035hE7TXNEsXAWGtdW_Prt5jbCGg19U_op4VDT0-ZF1ETX7xxQ_3s6oHl9IVIhSIPp0NOsGgAS5iqXFO1w8XdZ9ybPmpUAKCEdNlRAa2/s1600/pendant_copper_opal3.jpg" height="320" width="167" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizlPv2Za7QkSfvAvoBpPPjbB1nFzhKPE5TxnR418QGIZxQlQ4fEUx9bnGgh4gjVGwcJvjKeFqrlsrGtxQibr1oLGJQ9Tm1Yo7Sf9s_ntGhzMDFhcfyYcKjRjyTdKWqZ88TnHe-0MraUOeu/s1600/pendant_copper_opal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizlPv2Za7QkSfvAvoBpPPjbB1nFzhKPE5TxnR418QGIZxQlQ4fEUx9bnGgh4gjVGwcJvjKeFqrlsrGtxQibr1oLGJQ9Tm1Yo7Sf9s_ntGhzMDFhcfyYcKjRjyTdKWqZ88TnHe-0MraUOeu/s1600/pendant_copper_opal.jpg" height="320" width="221" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFe4ebR_sfi-Pnk83PVXvbDdgNuP_DHd576wqSF90De61cqKsLdVWx_tOPoVDyfnf7HUhNR-_T2khOSNqvoR07zLLEcYgk3SXPemCFLqsF49f8HvQpn2S6s91JJpyzwQF1RWrE7FKTqxXg/s1600/pendant_silver_green.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFe4ebR_sfi-Pnk83PVXvbDdgNuP_DHd576wqSF90De61cqKsLdVWx_tOPoVDyfnf7HUhNR-_T2khOSNqvoR07zLLEcYgk3SXPemCFLqsF49f8HvQpn2S6s91JJpyzwQF1RWrE7FKTqxXg/s1600/pendant_silver_green.jpg" height="320" width="228" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir6BFnssI63XVVK0oPZkA2YVeLTXeX5ghCVYtKx-qnl4Fb67hB6TPhpwW7yiFLogyQ2HDuHiTE8wm5rx8numqjuQn2YDAyr8-agahUYfmmZN5SAzBF6TLgIDGft9XGNVwih3GW48EpL1I5/s1600/pendant_wrap_copper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir6BFnssI63XVVK0oPZkA2YVeLTXeX5ghCVYtKx-qnl4Fb67hB6TPhpwW7yiFLogyQ2HDuHiTE8wm5rx8numqjuQn2YDAyr8-agahUYfmmZN5SAzBF6TLgIDGft9XGNVwih3GW48EpL1I5/s1600/pendant_wrap_copper.jpg" height="320" width="257" /></a></div>
<br />amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-89913992664065661032014-01-17T19:42:00.000-08:002014-01-17T19:51:08.524-08:00Hollow Fusion Bracelet<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEga-enhRx5E0Nwa8NGDgzDHvJrfbISZjifZ_SOBYnvvJzv-5TnkalfOz_-s8Mu-KFIiLhhN4cHfFN77l4k9kvH10tMugJtwvYzI3SIdUOCghmcJ4lqqD7m_M_ISMNgmwSpsTjbPdh0s0Cj58XcnEFIaOGF5-PX6vZpvXobWwxjqQiSRNeIWpw=" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/hollow_zpsebf20506.jpg" height="131" width="640" /></a> <br />
<br />
After completing a ton of fusing metal experiments, what do I do with all of these silver plates! I had been drooling over the designs of jewelry artist <a href="http://www.blairmetalsmith.com/">Nancy Blair</a> and thought about emulating the box look of her bracelets. Why not use my fuse experiments to make up the links in a bracelet!<br />
<a name='more'></a>I didn't save many progress photos as I really got into the crafting zone as I textured and finalised each plate. I used a variety of typical workshop tools to make large expanses of plain back plate more interesting including an allen key, screw driver and punch. It's amazing what can become a jewellery tool when you are looking for interesting textures!<br />
<br />
I wanted to make each plate something more, built up on a box to give each little platform more emphasis. I thought long and hard how to make the boxes - set each one like its own step bezel setting, put thick wire sandwiched between bottom and top plate for each link? I wanted to create something that wouldn't trap water in case the bracelet got wet.<br />
<br />
At the same time, my family were playing with paper cut out models of buildings and cars. Each piece would be cut out with the printed seen side, and little white tabs sticking off that would be used to glue it to other pieces. So I had the idea of building the link bottoms with tabs coming up off the bottom section at 90 degree angles onto which the textured top section of each link would sit. Confusing to describe, so I took photos instead to show.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/link6_zps69eaf999.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/link6_zps69eaf999.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEhpf6dpBCYqnmshxBBPRxrIWZjvEeOYY9PjFVgAyR4ezQEGvb-Rwygo0Zf-bStUwUv-0RHdg4o7EskcH6tmmRETXbc28bfLW_pdUyNVu4MkVDSw_mlXbYBFNdA6niqlc2b0iBkcc13DSk_NeEvfHJOI2_XxJTTlFtZOT6bQsyMYahEnxT-r=" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/link2_zps7960ac5f.jpg" height="147" width="320" /></a>I traced the outline of each plate lightly (visible in following photos as lighter pencil lines). Then used geometry (I was floored I was actually going to use this stuff from high school!) to create bottom models that were slightly smaller in size as the tops and tabs that would be folded up at 90 degrees where the top plate would sit flush. The flat, long dents in the back plates are a wide screw driver hit with a hammer.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEgS46-2p2bBl7SNmGsnRpXoGVtZzrP44F94ENuSnGglT4wGb-MulV_aMpLj8vMEWA0DDGt3zkYfGbhTQCROTXDFw3aF6lusfEOR54_W0KEnnKgyVnxB6ellkgIv_KQYEdQCZ7kU3yNqizSBCu2na5GpTtUq7BPV3JviNEJGRnDh3C54oa4J=" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/link3_zps13d9737c.jpg" height="120" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEiBqk7CSiPZfo0S5FJ3tQTrIgd_z8PUkc_J7DYLjdGXZJ6vxY7sxJjST91rcedioA416bRuAx0yQVRJXYEViR1BN_ZymGLv7PEruyb_6EQ8Kr9w84m-KNJzTlv8g0zjh-JnVQfcRPv_VUavtsmTQxIWxBPxMOQEJgpjUunIiJLYzNwRDpbb=" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/link5_zps304b7479.jpg" height="132" title="" width="200" /></a>Each tab folding up is placed to give room either side where I will attach half circle square s/s wire to which I will link each one together with jump rings. The allen key and punch gave these two plates an interesting background.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEiwjDTNT60g_pNxedUotJedlJLmnBEy9ilQVZFALgreLbGKTnFbHLMIZ-EiDSqicsEs4BdeiTnC47jw8yQoVsgJA2QRPDY2DvIL-AmTfe1y5zkehM-w-Ag-h_IE1v-en5yZ8ZHdfi5AB5TO7yfO6k99p9VE2Kw2YXz6KBERLuAeWck_XeIy=" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/link1_zpsbd04c8bc.jpg" /></a>One one plate, the triangle shape that resulted was going to create problems trying to link the bracelet together, as rectangles are so much easier. The original concept of this square was to create a bezel setting for a beautiful mabe pearl cab I owned as a centre piece of a flower. Then use the bottom section to make the whole link rectangle. In this photo, the bezel setting is standing up ready to go. Only, when I got it all soldered together to the bottom section, I had forgotten to make anything on the empty space of the bezel setting onto which the pearl to sit. The pearl kept falling straight through so I nixed the whole idea, curled the bezel strip over on itself and left the flower as an all metal outline.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/link4_zps8bede30e.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/link4_zps8bede30e.jpg" height="117" width="200" /></a>The fused plate with the PMC leafs and setting would have a gorgeous colourful opal set so I felt this plate had enough going on to do require any more textures. The upper face of the link can be seen in a little stronger pencil line.<br />
<br />
After each link box was created, and hinges soldered on, I cut a bunch of oval shaped half round 1.5 mm x 1 mm s/s wire jump rings to link the bracelet together. The divots of the screw driver, allen key and punch divots were also darkened with Liver of Sulfer treatments. The photos below show that I didn't have any good polishing tools, only hand held sand paper.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/hollow3_zps5488df9d.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/hollow3_zps5488df9d.jpg" height="169" width="320" /></a><a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/hollow2_zps95936656.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/hollow2_zps95936656.jpg" height="216" width="320" /></a> The start of the bracelet features the flower. I tried to texture a thin sheet of PMC and then solder that above the base plate. It textured beautifully. Then, when it came soldering that above the hinges, all definition of the texture disappeared and the sheet seemed to just melt into nothing special. It worked out alright though as it still hid the ends of the half circle square hinges. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The opal and spriral are the two middle links. <br />
<br />
The link with the spiral feature has some more gold looking balls on it in the final version. I used 2 brass rivets to hold the top plate to the bottom section just to try the technique out. Absolutely riveting.<br />
<br />
The opal doesn't show much colour in this photo, but is a stunning one with a lot of rainbow play. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/hollow1_zps823ec8b2.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/hollow1_zps823ec8b2.jpg" height="211" width="320" /></a>The plates with the yellow sapphire and the smaller one of the original experiment of 3 different ball material made a nice combination right before the clasp. The square s/s wire hinges can be seen better sticking out of the right bracelet link.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/hollow5_zps46befcaa.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/hollow5_zps46befcaa.jpg" height="164" width="320" /></a>And one of my biggest pet peeves when I am drooling over another artist's designs is that you only ever get to see the pretty front. It's hard to find an artist who will take photos of the functional sides and back of their pieces to show. So here it is, the boxes are each about 5 mm tall.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
On the back of the bracelet, you can see each plate with all the polishing sins of a novice without good polishing tools. I have since bought a flexible shaft dremel, obtained the Habras polishing wheels and given this bracelet a good once over to take all those visible scratches out. The clasp eventually was changed to a 2.5 cm/ 1 inch tube clasp. <br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/hollow4_zps80619b5e.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/hollow4_zps80619b5e.jpg" height="146" width="400" /> </a><br />
<br />
I love wearing this bracelet, but keep it for evenings out rather than everyday wear. The all metal connectors and hollow box forms means I carry my own bell percussion instrument as the bracelet tinkles constantly with movement.<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<i>No tools were harmed in the making of this bracelet. </i></h3>
<!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2Fi9.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa68%2Fcurriebaby%2Flink3_zps13d9737c.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEgS46-2p2bBl7SNmGsnRpXoGVtZzrP44F94ENuSnGglT4wGb-MulV_aMpLj8vMEWA0DDGt3zkYfGbhTQCROTXDFw3aF6lusfEOR54_W0KEnnKgyVnxB6ellkgIv_KQYEdQCZ7kU3yNqizSBCu2na5GpTtUq7BPV3JviNEJGRnDh3C54oa4J=" --><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2Fi9.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa68%2Fcurriebaby%2Flink5_zps304b7479.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEiBqk7CSiPZfo0S5FJ3tQTrIgd_z8PUkc_J7DYLjdGXZJ6vxY7sxJjST91rcedioA416bRuAx0yQVRJXYEViR1BN_ZymGLv7PEruyb_6EQ8Kr9w84m-KNJzTlv8g0zjh-JnVQfcRPv_VUavtsmTQxIWxBPxMOQEJgpjUunIiJLYzNwRDpbb=" --><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2Fi9.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa68%2Fcurriebaby%2Fhollow_zpsebf20506.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEga-enhRx5E0Nwa8NGDgzDHvJrfbISZjifZ_SOBYnvvJzv-5TnkalfOz_-s8Mu-KFIiLhhN4cHfFN77l4k9kvH10tMugJtwvYzI3SIdUOCghmcJ4lqqD7m_M_ISMNgmwSpsTjbPdh0s0Cj58XcnEFIaOGF5-PX6vZpvXobWwxjqQiSRNeIWpw=" --><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2Fi9.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa68%2Fcurriebaby%2Flink1_zpsbd04c8bc.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEiwjDTNT60g_pNxedUotJedlJLmnBEy9ilQVZFALgreLbGKTnFbHLMIZ-EiDSqicsEs4BdeiTnC47jw8yQoVsgJA2QRPDY2DvIL-AmTfe1y5zkehM-w-Ag-h_IE1v-en5yZ8ZHdfi5AB5TO7yfO6k99p9VE2Kw2YXz6KBERLuAeWck_XeIy=" --><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2Fi9.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa68%2Fcurriebaby%2Flink2_zps7960ac5f.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEhpf6dpBCYqnmshxBBPRxrIWZjvEeOYY9PjFVgAyR4ezQEGvb-Rwygo0Zf-bStUwUv-0RHdg4o7EskcH6tmmRETXbc28bfLW_pdUyNVu4MkVDSw_mlXbYBFNdA6niqlc2b0iBkcc13DSk_NeEvfHJOI2_XxJTTlFtZOT6bQsyMYahEnxT-r=" -->amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-45934883438364202302014-01-17T18:49:00.002-08:002014-01-17T19:01:10.237-08:00Fusing Silver with a torch Experiments<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
After getting the basics of silver smithing down of soldering, polishing and bezel setting I wanted to start experimenting in my home workshop. After committing sterling silver (s/s) to experimentation, I decided to explore the fusing technique. I won't go into the actual fusing process as there are may free, great videos on Youtube and other tutorials on the hows. Needless to say, I didn't do much research and just winged it.<br />
<br />
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In all experiments, I used 1 mm thick s/s sheet.</div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>Experiment 1: 1 silver s/s ball, one fine silver ball and 1 x 9 karat gold ball </b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEgtRi0TCjD48a5DHe9MV6PvO0Zthsy6VGkUIM9hOowXuxwBo3nGqlFFjpI6Mb2nPWzVQyiYKe4klaSNdNAsuTtED3l-6pCePQBbl_0Wk4JyiJHQ-eQUMq2koGTNy0rkPSF_Fd1d57tGlsWYkNSXvG4qO6dj-KkR1P8vDUNAL131C9WSPfk=" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/fuse_zps2dc51637.jpg" height="320" width="136" /></a>Fusing requires a lot of concentration and careful flame control. In an ideal set up, I would have a bunsen burner type flame heating the back plate from underneath to get the metal hot and then use another flame to do the final melting of the top surface from above. Sadly, I don't have a pluthera of materials in my workshop, so I used one plumbers LPG torch from above with the biggest head possible which leaves very little room for minute control. </div>
<br />
I learned in this first experiment that s/s melts quickly, 9 karat gold melts next and fine silver holds it shape quite well compared to the melting point of the s/s backplate. The s/s ball and gold ball resemble fried eggs as I was trying to get the fine silver ball to finally fuse to the backplate.<br />
<br />
Conclusion of this first experiment was to have all items I am fusing to one backplate all the same material for consistent success without complete meltdown of a feature.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Experiment 2: All s/s features and 1 x 9 karat gold ball </b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/fuse1_zps5fece47c.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/fuse1_zps5fece47c.jpg" height="179" width="320" /></a>I wanted to pin point which melted first, s/s or the gold. Obviously some quick internet research would have told me, but I'm a tactile crafter and like to figure these things out myself. I whipped up a spiral, flattened a big s/s ball, and a few other scrap s/s bits lying around and placed one small gold ball bottom right corner. By the time all of the s/s features had fused to the backplate, the gold ball was again a fried egg. </div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Conclusion of second experiment is fuse s/s stuff first and do the gold separately.</div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/fuse2_zpsda61cc1f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/fuse2_zpsda61cc1f.jpg" height="190" width="200" /></a><b>Experiment 3: one s/s feature and one larger 9 karat gold ball</b> <br />
<br />
I textured up 1.5 mm thick scrap s/s wire and tried a bigger gold ball to see if I could get better control. Obviously 9 karat gold melts much quicker than s/s. But the fried egg look is less obvious, I still ended up with a nice ball of gold to look at.</div>
<br />
Conclusion was to definitely put the gold on last after all other fusing is finished.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEhGYiEyyc7EQjJLgLsOXL4ftnti2RarjTLSvFLFZIYW86ZPiciDrVBIXSdNFeZ3k6tNrzpSxz2nV42wSPrkoVomypMhgkIGxjgvErYrJPnEO7o-aNhyphenhyphenL04qTapkR6KITeayc51Dpu-JO-UUc6RFfbLzDN8ASoRF08r7EPqC-8XMeRM-AL1r=" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/fuse3_zps7efd48cd.jpg" height="251" width="320" /></a><b>Experiment 4: Get the 9 karat gold ball to work</b><br />
<br />
I am unsure how I made the folded ribbon looking s/s feature, it was just a scrap at the bottom of my collection of bits. The s/s feature was fused first and then I fused the gold ball second. And it worked! A perfectly formed gold ball instead of breakfast. The back plate started resembling reticulated silver after the multiple heating sessions.<br />
<br />
You can see the edges of the back plate were really melted after this experiment.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Experiment 5: Precious Metal Clay (fine silver) plant forms, s/s bits and a fine silver bezel </b><b>setting</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/thin_zps8cbe5e4d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/thin_zps8cbe5e4d.jpg" height="146" width="200" /></a></div>
I had gone through a mad PMC phase a year before and painted the clay in thin layers on the back of delicate leafs. Leaving me with really thin and delicate fine silver leaves too brittle to be used on their own. (I was too lazy to do the bazillion layers to get a sturdy form.) Plus I wanted to see if a bezel can fuse without going wonky.<br />
<br />
<b><a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/fusedleaf_zpse4898f8b.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/fusedleaf_zpse4898f8b.jpg" height="174" width="200" /></a></b>The fusing session took a while to really get everything melted and fused together. Again, you can see the backplate showing a bit of reticulation and that bezel was a tad melted on the top before I took the torch away. But it worked!<br />
<br />
I was pleased to see that the bezel ring had not changed shape and still fit the stone it was made for. The bezel setting was nice and tall so after assessing the melting damage, it was deemed useful.<br />
<br />
<br />
After all of this experimentation, I decided to make a little pendant. This featured 3 fine silver balls, a PMC leaf of mine and a fine silver bezel. The back plate became warped and slightly reticulated again, but I liked the look so left the waves. A s/s tube bezel was soldered to the top, pendant polished, stone set and a pretty little pendant indeed.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj78gB2B56Z77tlQ1Btw3YA0HmJPlNySxXyGyiathJrlF-TiJMG6NVkIXX5Fqm-GBepWpf0toCaSB1o3Rd3E5hQ8V84yQ3wrQbXbM7rDe6kExzIOpSO6Hu43qUFm6xcBKZGhyNycNLbSfgK/s1600/pendant_silver_fuse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj78gB2B56Z77tlQ1Btw3YA0HmJPlNySxXyGyiathJrlF-TiJMG6NVkIXX5Fqm-GBepWpf0toCaSB1o3Rd3E5hQ8V84yQ3wrQbXbM7rDe6kExzIOpSO6Hu43qUFm6xcBKZGhyNycNLbSfgK/s1600/pendant_silver_fuse.jpg" height="191" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/link2_zps7960ac5f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/link4_zps8bede30e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a68/curriebaby/link1_zpsbd04c8bc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2Fi9.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa68%2Fcurriebaby%2Ffuse_zps2dc51637.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEgtRi0TCjD48a5DHe9MV6PvO0Zthsy6VGkUIM9hOowXuxwBo3nGqlFFjpI6Mb2nPWzVQyiYKe4klaSNdNAsuTtED3l-6pCePQBbl_0Wk4JyiJHQ-eQUMq2koGTNy0rkPSF_Fd1d57tGlsWYkNSXvG4qO6dj-KkR1P8vDUNAL131C9WSPfk=" --><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2Fi9.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa68%2Fcurriebaby%2Ffuse3_zps7efd48cd.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEhGYiEyyc7EQjJLgLsOXL4ftnti2RarjTLSvFLFZIYW86ZPiciDrVBIXSdNFeZ3k6tNrzpSxz2nV42wSPrkoVomypMhgkIGxjgvErYrJPnEO7o-aNhyphenhyphenL04qTapkR6KITeayc51Dpu-JO-UUc6RFfbLzDN8ASoRF08r7EPqC-8XMeRM-AL1r=" -->amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-56017108667068350102013-08-09T18:11:00.004-07:002014-05-31T15:48:20.655-07:00Spiral Bezel Setting TutorialEver wanted to trap a found object to make a pendant or dangle bead but wondered how? If you can coil a spiral then you can do this tutorial!<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8aCQGjBVjRCoAqxRB0l9Ouo2U0xjrBlcSzz59cChnkGwcIF9CynCjCfuhYcB476kWb-PVWbPOVq0mdldeKs8sEz7bHU3Br_xF8pXjnFVS6rr8vpwaLpBp3xi1Q26u5kId5LiNlpOIouf/s1600/bail_photo2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8aCQGjBVjRCoAqxRB0l9Ouo2U0xjrBlcSzz59cChnkGwcIF9CynCjCfuhYcB476kWb-PVWbPOVq0mdldeKs8sEz7bHU3Br_xF8pXjnFVS6rr8vpwaLpBp3xi1Q26u5kId5LiNlpOIouf/s200/bail_photo2.jpg" height="200" width="140" /></a>Start out in affordable copper wire purchased from an electronics hobbyist shop called transistor wire. It is cheap and coated in a clear plastic coating so the copper does not discolour.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmj9Ozj7Vd-azPesHR0RVXqfxlVbPDO6X97w-gcWkVlAp8-BRSRGBbZ11Z4ZvXs-dDxsmrU_MCPgxOtsS-iW_DgiMsq4nmyGgTiXIcGuJVJAlfR3zOoMvJLWvLcYrMOVj2EgoRloVvtBah/s1600/bail_simple_loop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmj9Ozj7Vd-azPesHR0RVXqfxlVbPDO6X97w-gcWkVlAp8-BRSRGBbZ11Z4ZvXs-dDxsmrU_MCPgxOtsS-iW_DgiMsq4nmyGgTiXIcGuJVJAlfR3zOoMvJLWvLcYrMOVj2EgoRloVvtBah/s200/bail_simple_loop.jpg" height="152" width="200" /></a>The tutorial shows you how to start the bezel setting for the found object to sit on and the literally spiral around building up a cup that will encase the found object inside. Then finally use the remaining wire as a simple bail.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<code></code><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaeAe7NwH3vaQVvrm1zBL0PC5rtBSh3-7iB1T7ElxGeguB_X5RusmAYpqI8-_XM-J630uGitnd13tgQbGWfDMOhdCk_x9v27w_wcDERYdu7cierUBMxUXXl7Q7148kD6mfgZBkLDtCPV97/s1600/bail_photo5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaeAe7NwH3vaQVvrm1zBL0PC5rtBSh3-7iB1T7ElxGeguB_X5RusmAYpqI8-_XM-J630uGitnd13tgQbGWfDMOhdCk_x9v27w_wcDERYdu7cierUBMxUXXl7Q7148kD6mfgZBkLDtCPV97/s200/bail_photo5.jpg" height="200" width="112" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEgq9yZ42v70G71iTuikkw8bUWGU0SeltAPLBxPLKSffWOuOqCNSftvk3Ch4Nf6uBGDMbiAo_NqhdHVkGY0fCdl-g75g9PRFRKHejx_ukaVCPvjeeWEaStZtvMQo8uFpG2WXRRpA_v37JY/s1600/bail_photo4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEgq9yZ42v70G71iTuikkw8bUWGU0SeltAPLBxPLKSffWOuOqCNSftvk3Ch4Nf6uBGDMbiAo_NqhdHVkGY0fCdl-g75g9PRFRKHejx_ukaVCPvjeeWEaStZtvMQo8uFpG2WXRRpA_v37JY/s200/bail_photo4.jpg" height="200" width="134" /></a>Once you have practice, why not use the last bit of wire to create an X-wrap weave and then create that as the bail.<br />
<br />
You do not need a smooth item to trap either, as shown by the fragmented rock in the tutorial.<br />
<br />
Share pictures of your own pendants, love to hear from you! <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>
<b><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9SEIxWU5VZlcxTW8/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Download Tutorial PDF</a></b></h2>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<iframe height="480" src="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9SEIxWU5VZlcxTW8/preview" width="640"></iframe>amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-10530921949701482472013-08-09T18:07:00.000-07:002014-04-01T22:39:50.406-07:00Basket Weave Tutorial<br />
Creating a pendant is a lot of fun, and often once a stone has been captured into wire working it would make a fantastic ring. But how to create a nice ring band that is not too plain for the complex ring top?<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgl0ztwR-Kbx6lnRJ6Z5K4Wcx74IW3wxibTBb0TsleVOi91BwBLTIDMMC9CC1aiIWc45aCC1_LzO_-dXIpKPA4WUXwtpxIBYb02Y3CF3X1ymqd7qFGrh4R6T7Y2ckZs3YDzSdpxmddxmxF/s1600/tutorial_Basketweave_t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgl0ztwR-Kbx6lnRJ6Z5K4Wcx74IW3wxibTBb0TsleVOi91BwBLTIDMMC9CC1aiIWc45aCC1_LzO_-dXIpKPA4WUXwtpxIBYb02Y3CF3X1ymqd7qFGrh4R6T7Y2ckZs3YDzSdpxmddxmxF/s1600/tutorial_Basketweave_t.jpg" /></a><br />
Basket Weave! A beautiful wrap that creates a sturdy, yet pretty ring band that is certainly not understated. It is easiest to start with the ring band and then use the wild wires at either end to construct the ring top.<br />
<br />
The tutorial is only how to do the basket weave technique, not how to then go on to create the whole ring. Make enough band to mostly get around your finger, and then use the wild bits in coils to hide the final join.<br />
<code></code><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9QTJ0S2hyMWNXbmc/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Download PDF of Tutorial Here</a><br />
<br />
<code> </code> <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL0K-BbBFZMhxJf3L8tZ2OO-2Z_BbuV3KV118j9fh0B4Fr69oltcuyWlFLkVSuOtzZFRPVSxc2B8UY1Bkl1VCmnZRK4ESw3tACHQgaslGNWYjPdY1i0cSg-MldQKMyPVcj-AUrfrdbbZHe/s1600/ring_silver_band.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL0K-BbBFZMhxJf3L8tZ2OO-2Z_BbuV3KV118j9fh0B4Fr69oltcuyWlFLkVSuOtzZFRPVSxc2B8UY1Bkl1VCmnZRK4ESw3tACHQgaslGNWYjPdY1i0cSg-MldQKMyPVcj-AUrfrdbbZHe/s200/ring_silver_band.jpg" height="176" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<iframe height="480" src="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9QTJ0S2hyMWNXbmc/preview" width="640"></iframe>amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-5870479877612488542013-08-08T04:43:00.001-07:002013-08-08T04:43:18.974-07:00Thank you CustomersAfter having my shop website up from 2005 to 2013, I have decided to close the selling part of my jewellery making hobby down. I am focusing more on the educational side of promoting the passion of jewellery making to future hobbyists.<br />
<br />
Thank you to all past clients with whom I have had the pleasure of designing some amazing projects, it wouldn't have happen without you all.<br />
<br />
I have added a few pages to this blog of my designs and favourite projects broken down by jewellery type categories viewable in the upper right hand corner of my home page.<br />
<br />
My tutorials will be re-linked again shortly.amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-65223763703726423332013-01-18T19:23:00.003-08:002013-12-12T18:15:00.865-08:00More on HABRAS Disks for Polishing Jewellery<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8nCB6-Ig_Hq-9i4IwQyH8CaxadXfoI9pIR3B-oXoworNrU4BNioJZzrGrZ3hLo0rzg13QAgDkyJGW6AgBNAmbxHADgPVStEr7EJ25HaEurRvAPQSxU8gf31c39wogx3VMPqWVeu5gppP6/s1600/habrasfull.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8nCB6-Ig_Hq-9i4IwQyH8CaxadXfoI9pIR3B-oXoworNrU4BNioJZzrGrZ3hLo0rzg13QAgDkyJGW6AgBNAmbxHADgPVStEr7EJ25HaEurRvAPQSxU8gf31c39wogx3VMPqWVeu5gppP6/s1600/habrasfull.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8nCB6-Ig_Hq-9i4IwQyH8CaxadXfoI9pIR3B-oXoworNrU4BNioJZzrGrZ3hLo0rzg13QAgDkyJGW6AgBNAmbxHADgPVStEr7EJ25HaEurRvAPQSxU8gf31c39wogx3VMPqWVeu5gppP6/s1600/habrasfull.jpg" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdUIYug47wRFE13lEmefVrqIbKeUJoiZR3IhyD9esGTqKflM5MPsaij0xd-2PvFHsTgJbfJD7oSvPZznFxgEffBKPJ4R5own6JSbVmxU18NTzMFTZjviPI4erXQJcBJDfcqZimf7yw9Kl/s1600/habras1d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a> Since writing my post umpteen years ago about my original 19 mm set of Hatho Hasbras Disks, I have picked up a few more tips for when using these delicious and important tool of polishing jewellery.<br />
<br />
They are still to date my absolute favourite polishing tool in my workshop for the fine polishing requirements, especially when aiming for a mirror polish.<br />
<br />
<code><a name='more'></a></code><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoM-6We1AcVR6C8sH-MdT7xIAH_NZo3inKnlezvEVZ680Q4Fot9vvw0mDPmDYUuUut44KSy-we5TmSk3Q5ypriTrcuezWPHzjoA1AK76GUK-Qj8emreUcxU27PFFFIOpthqj8n4jZz-vWI/s1600/habrasshredded.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoM-6We1AcVR6C8sH-MdT7xIAH_NZo3inKnlezvEVZ680Q4Fot9vvw0mDPmDYUuUut44KSy-we5TmSk3Q5ypriTrcuezWPHzjoA1AK76GUK-Qj8emreUcxU27PFFFIOpthqj8n4jZz-vWI/s1600/habrasshredded.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8nCB6-Ig_Hq-9i4IwQyH8CaxadXfoI9pIR3B-oXoworNrU4BNioJZzrGrZ3hLo0rzg13QAgDkyJGW6AgBNAmbxHADgPVStEr7EJ25HaEurRvAPQSxU8gf31c39wogx3VMPqWVeu5gppP6/s1600/habrasfull.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><b>Important tip #1:</b> <span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: red;"><b>First and foremost - do not use these disks any faster than 5000 RPM! </b></span></span><br />
<br />
They shred apart. Bristles go flying in all directions. It's very sad to see your expensive 4 disk wheel (High Polish wheel in this photo) reduced to something beyond useless. Thankfully the mandrel is a screw top. Now to find a supplier I can order replacement disks from...<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Important Tip #2:</b> 25 mm cover a lot more area and takes more metal away quickly than 19 mm wheels. Be cautious when using the first time. Thankfully their colour system is standard across all sets and sizes of Hatho Habras 3m Rubber wheels (except for the course bright yellow and the extra fine bright yellow!).<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>25 mm Set Wheel Description </b> <br />
I bought what I thought were replacement wheels after a few of my important 19 mm wheels lost their spokes. I ended up going to a store in the UK (it's been so long I don't even remember WHO I purchased the bigger wheels through) and the sales person convinced me to buy the slightly bigger wheels as the larger wheel diameter would make polishing easier. Seemed logical.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YBhmPf9jC4_qwNlXoUHYl69ao_50dZjCBWYX-xW03JnsrShNFibnU7ZTM48RLgMi44bS7MIo8uf6z_WKZxD8mGL_EhRVc-AgWz4tcCVDwb4y2Yuro7Lg-63wwpPJmOo08Vt1Npp05hG3/s1600/habras1a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="109" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YBhmPf9jC4_qwNlXoUHYl69ao_50dZjCBWYX-xW03JnsrShNFibnU7ZTM48RLgMi44bS7MIo8uf6z_WKZxD8mGL_EhRVc-AgWz4tcCVDwb4y2Yuro7Lg-63wwpPJmOo08Vt1Npp05hG3/s320/habras1a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
When I received the wheels, they were individually packed with only the Hatho Manufacturer product code as a label. From left to right, I have placed the wheels in coarsest at left to finest at right. Labeled left to right below taken from the <a href="http://www.hatho.de/51" target="_blank">Hatho General Product Catalogue</a> (pages 28) ["grit" meaning Sand Paper Grit equivalent]:<br />
<ul>
<li>909 25(3) - Colour Brown. Extra Course, Grit 36.</li>
<li>908 25(3) - Colour Dark Green. Very Course, Grit 50.</li>
<li>901 25(3) - Colour Bright Yellow. Course, Grit 80. (Not photographed).</li>
<li>905 25(3) - Colour White. Medium, Grit 120.</li>
<li>902 25 (3) - Colour Dark Pink/Red. Standard, Grit 220.</li>
<li>903 25(3) - Colour Blue. Fine, Grit 400.</li>
</ul>
The best "polish" you can achieve using the thicker wheels is a course matt finish akin to what you would achieve using 400 Grit sand paper. The Mandrel diameter was identical to my older 19 mm set.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZvHDYh5BgM3HjUNpcMivVvLS1ael1kl3PsRMnnF9ByL9HwtVVx_kx7bQq9PCBNxXZ_jX6XSohtL8XBenIGy9CjanP8_d57AF9Dn4hsun7CzaG8UW0sm8F3F0kPtCdI9CDK7Z66KYXh7vU/s1600/habras1c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZvHDYh5BgM3HjUNpcMivVvLS1ael1kl3PsRMnnF9ByL9HwtVVx_kx7bQq9PCBNxXZ_jX6XSohtL8XBenIGy9CjanP8_d57AF9Dn4hsun7CzaG8UW0sm8F3F0kPtCdI9CDK7Z66KYXh7vU/s1600/habras1c.jpg" /></a>To show how these 25 mm disks differ in size and look, here is a close up comparing the "blue" wheels in both 25 mm and 19 mm sets.<br />
<br />
The wheel on the left is the 25 mm wheel, notice how much thicker the bristles are. The wheel on the right is the same blue, but part of the 19 mm set and finer bristles<br />
<br />
<b>19 mm Set Wheel Description</b><br />
In comparison, below is my older, small wheel of 19 mm set. The bigger 25 mm wheel is just in the photo to compare the sizes. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF0n8isD0QwzL9_qXzrgKBBgvMQzLZAMAcegezFGlcvU3BgB21to6eIitAVAYM3_KygRLdVk-cArqi9Jf90gVyerEItb_cqZ_xx2uf20Z7bs0k04tnR-DprYW3yIeUr-0aF7OoXySSHQ98/s1600/habras1b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF0n8isD0QwzL9_qXzrgKBBgvMQzLZAMAcegezFGlcvU3BgB21to6eIitAVAYM3_KygRLdVk-cArqi9Jf90gVyerEItb_cqZ_xx2uf20Z7bs0k04tnR-DprYW3yIeUr-0aF7OoXySSHQ98/s320/habras1b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Labeled left to right below taken from the <a href="http://www.hatho.de/51" target="_blank">Hatho General Product Catalogue</a> (pages 29):<br />
<ul>
<li>901 19 - Colour: Bright Yellow. Course, Grit 80</li>
<li>905 19 - Colour: White. Medium, Grit 120 (not photographed above).</li>
<li>902 19 - Colour: Dark Pink/Red. Standard, Grit 220 (Same colour as 902 25 above).</li>
<li>903 19 - Colour: Blue. Fine, Grit 400.</li>
<li>904 19 - Colour: Pink. Very Fine, Grit "Pumice".</li>
<li>906 19 - Colour: Bright Yellow. Extra Fine, Grit "High Grade Corundum 6 microns" (not photographed).</li>
<li>907 19 - Colour: Light Green. Ultra Fine, Grit "High Grade Corundum 1 micron".</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Complete List of both Sets</b> <br />
So to put both products in a complete list rated by Grit (Bigger Wheel first).<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>909 25(3) - Colour Brown. Extra Course Grit 36.</li>
<li>908 25(3) - Colour Dark Green. Very Course Grit 50.</li>
<li>901 25(3) - Colour Bright Yellow. Course, Grit 80. (Not photographed).</li>
<li>901 19 - Colour: Bright Yellow. Course, Grit 80 </li>
<li>905 25(3) - Colour White. Medium, Grit 120.</li>
<li>905 19 - Colour: White. Medium, Grit 120 (not photographed above). </li>
<li>902 25 (3) - Colour Dark Pink/Red. Standard, Grit 220</li>
<li>902 19 - Colour: Dark Pink/Red. Standard, Grit 220 (Same colour as 902 25 above). </li>
<li>903 25(3) - Colour Blue. Fine, Grit 400</li>
<li>903 19 - Colour: Blue. Fine, Grit 400. </li>
<li>904 19 - Colour: Pink. Very Fine, Grit "Pumice".</li>
<li>906 19 - Colour: Bright Yellow. Extra Fine, Grit "High Grade Corundum 6 microns" (not photographed).</li>
<li>907 19 - Colour: Light Green. Ultra Fine, Grit "High Grade Corundum 1 micron".</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Benefits of the Difference Sizes</b><br />
<br />
The 25 mm wheels are thicker, so seem to bite more into the metal when using. For example, say you polish the same piece of sterling silver with the same colour wheels for same length of time, just in two different sizes. The 19 mm wheel with finer bristles will file away less metal and seems to leave less deep scratches. The 25 mm wheel with sturdier, thicker bristles definitely files away more metal and leaves deeper scratches.<br />
<br />
So if you want to file away a lot of metal, you are better off using the 25 mm wheels. They are more rugged and sturdy, and won't wear out so quickly. The other thing to remember, since the wheels are bigger, to slow the RPMs down a bit. The larger wheel tips will travel faster than the smaller wheel tips at the same RPMs.<br />
<br />
The 19 mm wheels are more fine and less robust, so perfect for handling filligree and delicate projects. <br />
<br />
The important thing is while technically the large and small wheel of the same colour are also the same Grit, the larger wheel is going to take away a lot more metal quickly than compared to the smaller wheel - which gives the impression that their "Grit measurements" aren't similar at all in performance.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc07_ysWEB9Qch_xadP795sp2w0rZDBVLD5QV73J48srBtepj8k5k2VqsU5AjAskGFdP6eizZ7459LuZJPH78rzqrk3nNNotZazBkbLC7Dkr-7JZTl6JWH46mazoDLcYcLemc-LX-Me32f/s1600/ring_side_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc07_ysWEB9Qch_xadP795sp2w0rZDBVLD5QV73J48srBtepj8k5k2VqsU5AjAskGFdP6eizZ7459LuZJPH78rzqrk3nNNotZazBkbLC7Dkr-7JZTl6JWH46mazoDLcYcLemc-LX-Me32f/s1600/ring_side_small.jpg" /></a></div>
That said, I used both wheels while polishing up this ring and each had its benefits. I used the thicker wheels to help file back the lip on the bezel setting, get into the sharper big corners that need filing and smooth out the bigger scratches on the ring shank.<br />
<br />
Then I switched to the finer wheels when I needed to polish the bezel with the stone set to get rid of my scratches. Also the bigger wheels do not go fine enough in Grit to get a high polish so I needed the finer wheels too.<br />
<br />
Also the finer wheels are small enough to file inside the ring shank.<br />
<br />
<br />
Hope you found this helpful!<br />
<br />
If you have any questions feel free to contact me at amandajewls@gmail.com or visit my website <a href="http://www.yourjewellery.com/">www.yourjewellery.com</a><br />
<br />amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-81148083944620050652012-11-24T16:13:00.000-08:002013-12-12T18:15:18.080-08:00Fibular Pin Design Notes<!--[if !mso]>
<style>
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
.shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
</style>
<![endif]--><br />
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:DoNotOptimizeForBrowser/>
</w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Fibular Pin Designs</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The term Fibular comes from the Latin term, fibulae,
referring to brooches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While the
overall structure of a fibular pin is limitless to your imagination (just do an
image search the term “Fibular Pin” in a search engine and see the thousands of
different styles that come up!), every fibular pin has the same technical
components: Hinge, Body, Spring and Pin.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi738a4m8SiQ6D_nZd8V5ISekUGf-t563QNc2M3jALEN7b7P7sN6A_Qis3MkBd6COCVwFSOR9SyUc7uszNJDRL63Rjr2KHYm3CXZ7WnoK9oke3_ICFAZhM_cEq2T8Mm0UbHIinpsLFAaKbq/s1600/pin+structure.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi738a4m8SiQ6D_nZd8V5ISekUGf-t563QNc2M3jALEN7b7P7sN6A_Qis3MkBd6COCVwFSOR9SyUc7uszNJDRL63Rjr2KHYm3CXZ7WnoK9oke3_ICFAZhM_cEq2T8Mm0UbHIinpsLFAaKbq/s320/pin+structure.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>The body</b> is the flat plate between the hinge and
spring where, in beaded and wire worked pins, most of the decoration occurs.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>The hinge</b>, located at one end of the body section,
will have some kind of cup, hook or other structure to tuck the pin end into to
keep the pin secured shut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This part
can also be extremely fancy and beaded.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It is often hidden in a brooch design.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<code><a name='more'></a></code></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>The spring</b>, located at the opposite end of the body
to the hinge, also is the beginning of the pin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The spring is one or more coiled loops of wire that stores
tension for the pin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Again, think of a
safety pin and how force must be applied to close the safety pin shut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tension is provided by the loop in the
spring. A minimum of 1.5 rotations is enough to cause sufficient tension.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beads are often dangled here or the spring
loops are exaggerated or multiplied as a design feature of the brooch.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>The pin (from herein referred to as the PIN SHAFT)</b> is
the section that begins at the spring and ends in a sharp point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This will be pushed through material and
then the sharp end hooked into the hinge to close the brooch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No decoration is put on the pin lest it gets
caught up in the material.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For the rest
of this tutorial, “pin” will refer to the whole fibular brooch while “pin
shaft” will refer to the pin section as labeled in the above safety pin
photograph.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
An important feature for the fibular pin design to work
effectively is that the connection between the hinge, body and spring must be
secure and immobile.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Each component in
the pin can be made by a different section of wire in the design, but those
three sections need to be wired together solidly so that the whole pin design
does not pull out of shape. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="border: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 221.4pt;" valign="top" width="295"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-lpdgndDjdZYGG3IlPb4zk_2mQezghYn_-5ZhhcYBqmKWnc6ZOfudbTqjHbE__d1sFg8X0VqLEVzRjVwJffhN7m1OukkCrNwAwHd8y29ytyIgIeIQuk90Dr2TfixrDqNNRxyInHDSbGIW/s1600/pin+structure+unsecure.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-lpdgndDjdZYGG3IlPb4zk_2mQezghYn_-5ZhhcYBqmKWnc6ZOfudbTqjHbE__d1sFg8X0VqLEVzRjVwJffhN7m1OukkCrNwAwHd8y29ytyIgIeIQuk90Dr2TfixrDqNNRxyInHDSbGIW/s1600/pin+structure+unsecure.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 221.4pt;" valign="top" width="295"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5wJddKSxKNLoXjKVz3aViLhE8e2I54UJhpAPwmK5H-LenkKCiFtlfUjULyh4f0k7bs215U5oh1s7k4aBJ6HaQtwIn-jC1iPre3oBEf3pvulg84rG8NyNY_LA3FzB1uP8j_NEzVnx9006y/s1600/pin+structure+butterfly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5wJddKSxKNLoXjKVz3aViLhE8e2I54UJhpAPwmK5H-LenkKCiFtlfUjULyh4f0k7bs215U5oh1s7k4aBJ6HaQtwIn-jC1iPre3oBEf3pvulg84rG8NyNY_LA3FzB1uP8j_NEzVnx9006y/s1600/pin+structure+butterfly.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 221.4pt;" valign="top" width="295"><div class="MsoNormal">
This fibular pin is unattached at the 3 sections and will
pull apart out of shape when the pin shaft is closed into the hinge.</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext .5pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext .5pt; border-top: none; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 221.4pt;" valign="top" width="295"><div class="MsoNormal">
In this brooch, the base the spring and base of the hinge
have both been wired to the twisted core section of the wings, which forms
the body.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This pin will not bend out
of shape.</div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So in designing your own fibular pin design, the sections
can come from any components of the wire work, but careful planning needs to
happen in order to know how the Spring, Body and Hinge will be attached
together to create a solid backbone for your fibular pin to work.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once you understand this concept, then you can get very
creative with making fibular pin designs in wire and beads!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some designs have the hinge start as a long
thin wrapped loop curled up to protect the pin shaft tip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The hinge can just be a simple “U” shape made of
wire.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is important to think of the type of material on which
the brooch will sit, as the gauge of wire used and the overall design can ruin
the very material if not careful!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Below
is a rough chart of material types and design features to keep in mind when
planning your brooch design.</div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br clear="all" style="mso-special-character: line-break; page-break-before: always;" />
</span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="border: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.4pt;" valign="top" width="247"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Type of Material</b></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 257.4pt;" valign="top" width="343"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Type of Design Features to Know</b></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.4pt;" valign="top" width="247"><div class="MsoNormal">
Tightly woven cotton (button down shirts, twill, corduroy,
tightly woven wool material)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
knit wear (knit jersey)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Delicate material (thin scarves)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Delicate Hand knit materials </div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext .5pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext .5pt; border-top: none; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 257.4pt;" valign="top" width="343"><ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Pin
shift needs to be thin, less than 1 mm as any bigger would cause
permanent hole and sever the fibres of the material.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Hinge
should be a rounded cup with no sharp points or edges to catch on
material.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">No
sharp beads or points to catch on material.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Whole
design needs to be light in weight so it doesn’t rip a hole in the thin
material from sheer weight.</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.4pt;" valign="top" width="247"><div class="MsoNormal">
Loosely woven material (like on large threaded woolen
jackets)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Winter scarves that are thick </div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext .5pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext .5pt; border-top: none; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 257.4pt;" valign="top" width="343"><ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Pin
shaft can be thicker than 1 mm, but if using 2 mm a caution should be
delivered with the pin to use only on loosely woven materials.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Hinge
can be U-shaped wire hook.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Whole
design can be more heavy as the thicker threads in the fabric will
support the weight without ripping.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">All
sharp points should be rounded to not catch on fibre.</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.4pt;" valign="top" width="247"><div class="MsoNormal">
Hand Knit style material</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext .5pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext .5pt; border-top: none; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 257.4pt;" valign="top" width="343"><ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Any
pin shaft diameter can be used.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Hinge
should be a rounded cup with no sharp points or edges to catch on and
pull out yarn.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">No
sharp beads or points to snag yarn.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Overall
design weight depends on how thin the yarn and hand knit fabric is
(obviously a cobweb yarn shawl will need a lighter brooch than a thick
wooly winter scarf with aran worsted weight yarn).</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is always best to test the wire gauge you will use on a
discrete, hidden place of a wide variety of materials in your wardrobe so you
have a better sense of what gauge suits what kind of materials.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is a case where hands on testing is the
only way you can get a thorough understanding.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>When in doubt, it is best to put your beaded design onto a manufactured
pin mechanism you can purchase in most bead and craft shops.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Happy Beading!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Amanda </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.yourjewellery.com/" target="_blank">www.yourjewellery.com </a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-41553883606878377972012-07-24T16:48:00.003-07:002012-07-24T16:48:28.119-07:00A Bit About Fitting Your BodyNot my typical technical jewellery post today (or year?) but I am also an avid knitter and wanted to collect these posts on how to find knitting patterns and modify them to best fit your body shape. <br />
<br />
Having these posts in 1 spot will help me pick better sweater patterns in the future!<br />
<br />
Amy Herzog of http://www.amyherzogdesigns.com has put together these tutorials for us for free. She sells each one for $2 for a single PDF and you can buy all 10 in pdf form for $10.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.amyherzogdesigns.com/2010/04/11/fit-to-flatter-installment-1-introduction/" target="_blank">Fit to Flatter Installment 1: Introduction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.amyherzogdesigns.com/2010/04/25/fit-to-flatter-installment-2-shapes/" target="_blank">Fit to Flatter Installment 2: Shapes (and how to flatter them)</a><br />
<a href="http://www.amyherzogdesigns.com/2010/05/09/fit-to-flatter-installment-3-mindful-project-choice/" target="_blank">Fit to Flatter Installment 3: Mindful Project Choice</a><br />
<a href="http://www.amyherzogdesigns.com/2010/05/23/fit-to-flatter-installment-4-sweaters-and-you/" target="_blank">Fit to Flatter Installment 4: Sweaters and You</a><br />
<a href="http://www.amyherzogdesigns.com/2010/06/06/fit-to-flatter-installment-5-necklines/" target="_blank">Fit to Flatter Installment 5: Necklines</a><br />
<a href="http://www.amyherzogdesigns.com/2010/06/20/fit-to-flatter-installment-6-sleeves/" target="_blank">Fit to Flatter Installment 6: Sleeves</a><br />
<a href="http://www.amyherzogdesigns.com/2010/07/05/fit-to-flatter-installment-7-sweater-length/" target="_blank">Fit to Flatter Installment 7: Sweater Length</a><br />
<a href="http://www.amyherzogdesigns.com/2010/07/18/fit-to-flatter-installment-8-shaping/" target="_blank">Fit to Flatter Installment 8: Shaping</a><br />
<a href="http://www.amyherzogdesigns.com/2010/07/31/fit-to-flatter-installment-9-implementation/" target="_blank">Fit to Flatter Installment 9: Implementation</a><br />
<a href="http://www.amyherzogdesigns.com/2010/08/15/fit-to-flatter-installment-10-conclusions/" target="_blank">Fit to Flatter Installment 10: Conclusions</a>amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-71813257184774033732012-01-03T14:31:00.000-08:002014-12-15T16:41:55.972-08:00Coiled Coil BeadI cannot talk about the coiled coil bead (my own term) without first mentioning I first saw this technique on the jewellery of Connie Fox from <a href="http://www.jatayu.com/">www.jatayu.com</a>. After thoroughly devouring the <a href="http://www.jatayu.com/Education/Education.htm" target="_blank">education section</a> of her website, I found a free tutorial from Connie Fox on how to make her bangle style with the beautiful feature bead made entirely of wire.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.jewelrymakingdaily.com/resized-image.ashx/__size/200x200/__key/Interweave.CommunityServer.PostThumbnails/00.00.00.50.69/bracelet.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.jewelrymakingdaily.com/resized-image.ashx/__size/200x200/__key/Interweave.CommunityServer.PostThumbnails/00.00.00.50.69/bracelet.JPG" /></a></div>
The photo left is the bracelet straight from Connie Fox's "Elegant Twisted Bangle Bracelet" featured on the tutorial link page at<a href="http://www.jewelrymakingdaily.com/media/p/5069/showcontent.aspx" target="_blank"> Jewelry Making Daily</a> by Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist. The tutorial was originally split over two months so in two parts.<br />
<br />
Part one features how to make the "coiled focal bead" opposite the fancy hook. As it is on the Jewelry Making Daily website, it requires you to register first, which is free. <a href="http://www.jewelrymakingdaily.com/media/p/5069/download.aspx" target="_blank">Part One Link here.</a><br />
<br />
<code></code><br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
Part two features the actual bangle construction and creation of her "swan hook" as Connie Fox calls it. <a href="http://www.jewelrymakingdaily.com/media/p/5096/download.aspx" target="_blank">Part Two Link here</a><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPua_gints1_igfdPGStH8Ub6tJSMiAw5fc6oB1s4hZQ-F5vpBjz9jtu1oip4z3Ram9Qou6VeYaJxRxnv6gcd8P8qlNQijRQF_udPBoWzOZdDAwW53ymV0p9yyy9PqIgg8wxUxkr7cEeRi/s1600/copperbracelet_t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPua_gints1_igfdPGStH8Ub6tJSMiAw5fc6oB1s4hZQ-F5vpBjz9jtu1oip4z3Ram9Qou6VeYaJxRxnv6gcd8P8qlNQijRQF_udPBoWzOZdDAwW53ymV0p9yyy9PqIgg8wxUxkr7cEeRi/s1600/copperbracelet_t.jpg" /></a>Here is the bangle I crafted while following Connie Fox's tutorial - literally one of my first wire worked pieces ever! It was a rough attempt, done in copper which is inexpensive to practice with, using what I had on hand. But I definitely learned the technique!<br />
<br />
It was a fun tutorial and I also learned how to pre-twist my own wire using my husband's cordless drill.. Here is<a href="http://youtu.be/GdRi4ayL01c" target="_blank"> a video</a> (which is selling their own special bit) to show the concept. However, I just twist the ends of the wires together and tighten that into the drill chuck and twist away.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtnGTsYdVXBeJ_59tFplUuVZxcnfQPOZwrfO4IE3CWU3E7emYSGBtrpAFPlCd1gs3tnKczHzUNHMoc47lFxwWOhuwKFaRzKF1JzcRaFkte7Xf6hsVmt0N2FOFvjVnduB72boylkUjImt0u/s1600/bracelet_brassblue_t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtnGTsYdVXBeJ_59tFplUuVZxcnfQPOZwrfO4IE3CWU3E7emYSGBtrpAFPlCd1gs3tnKczHzUNHMoc47lFxwWOhuwKFaRzKF1JzcRaFkte7Xf6hsVmt0N2FOFvjVnduB72boylkUjImt0u/s1600/bracelet_brassblue_t.jpg" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5-vuUpbLzlm_GJBMGgulLdfsFS_mF1ARcyCpQzZnwwCNZE247iSzrGjxrbTtcbuNgYZc2FZhEwGgQjKOtuFEuxZkINB6HrWVNBNOv5e_Zh3ft9LFgPiPmgR_CRBrywDhvd-TWYekBMkk4/s1600/bracelet_wire_brass_orange_t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5-vuUpbLzlm_GJBMGgulLdfsFS_mF1ARcyCpQzZnwwCNZE247iSzrGjxrbTtcbuNgYZc2FZhEwGgQjKOtuFEuxZkINB6HrWVNBNOv5e_Zh3ft9LFgPiPmgR_CRBrywDhvd-TWYekBMkk4/s1600/bracelet_wire_brass_orange_t.jpg" /></a> <br />
The coiled bead technique was enough to whet my appetite for wire working bracelets for a long time and I have continued to construct these bangle style bracelets as they are just so addictive.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.web4business.com.au/amandasjewellery/images/pendant_patience.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.web4business.com.au/amandasjewellery/images/pendant_silver_sunset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMGa3dykg14sr2f9vbnsAF6-6-hMyZF04LX7YdBVwgqOstfIHSyYGxi4IObwlVQNfW4nkE9sPCeaobAlnk1yfWL3tZSGCN0d9xOswCnlSitT2xO54tkBhzsMH3QIqAvoPSlQQWSEOi5uNm/s1600/bracelet_wire_brass_polymer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMGa3dykg14sr2f9vbnsAF6-6-hMyZF04LX7YdBVwgqOstfIHSyYGxi4IObwlVQNfW4nkE9sPCeaobAlnk1yfWL3tZSGCN0d9xOswCnlSitT2xO54tkBhzsMH3QIqAvoPSlQQWSEOi5uNm/s200/bracelet_wire_brass_polymer.jpg" height="175" width="200" /></a>The coiled coil bead just adds a strong visual section that creates a lot of textual interest. Playing with different wires such as round wire (photo left) or half round wire (photo right) or even twisted coiling wire gives very different feeling coiled beads.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
It is a great way to hide trouble areas, errant wires or just fill in space on a project.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.web4business.com.au/amandasjewellery/images/pendant_copper_purple.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
While Connie Fox works in rather thicker gauges of wire, the technique works perfectly well with thinner gauge of wire for a more delicate look. Eventually as I delved deeper into the different styles of wire working artists, I saw amazing coiled beads in miniature by a group in the US. After careful inspection of their photos, I realised that the coiled bead technique was used in the construction of their fancier looking beads - just done with much finer wires and more core wires held together inside the coil.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbJSb6O-_WJyB3OeaVDtjyWzgn-r6KmOL7I4ImHTBAfoAgDwnNFF9HsCZd-eQufXgb90zT6l8RCzRTq-5WMRn8T4CoJRnNFiZVow0itpxE7rajaVHar_EXzSyjj8a1O7q0XhMYqQkNr9Qh/s1600/pendant_copper_purple_t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbJSb6O-_WJyB3OeaVDtjyWzgn-r6KmOL7I4ImHTBAfoAgDwnNFF9HsCZd-eQufXgb90zT6l8RCzRTq-5WMRn8T4CoJRnNFiZVow0itpxE7rajaVHar_EXzSyjj8a1O7q0XhMYqQkNr9Qh/s1600/pendant_copper_purple_t.jpg" /></a></div>
I had to learn this technique, but the group in the US would not teach their techniques. I reverse engineered and with trial and error, and the understanding from Connie Fox's tutorial, I worked it out. The finer technique is a coiling wire wrapped around 3 core wires - all of which is done carefully to keep the wire work tidy and neat. Hard to do when all wires are under 0.6 mm (24) gauge! This bead can be seen on the left side of the copper and amethyst pendant photographed right.<br />
<br />
What you don't see now is a couple of wires hidden inside the coiled bead I didn't know exactly HOW to terminate! All directed up behind the pendant and terminated neatly.<br />
<br />
I created a free tutorial on how to do the more complicated coiled coil bead with the multiple core wires. While recently teaching a workshop on this tutorial at the December 2011 Retreat for the <a href="http://www.aussiebeadingretreats.com/" target="_blank">Aussie Beading Retreats</a> , I was asked "why use 3 small core wires?" as we were all fumbling with 5 wire jelly fish like projects. Imagine the core wires done in copper with the outer coiling wire done in a really fine sterling silver wire. With the final larger wire filling in the gaps a brass or gold wire. If you can visualise, you would have copper peeking out between sterling silver and a final twist of gold here and there to help marry up all three metals in one project. Or have those core wires be from the many different coloured wires now available on the market! This is one of those tutorials I strongly recommend to learn, then really explore with a lot of different materials.<br />
<br />
<br />
I would love for you to share your coiled bead you create from this tutorial!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw8e_EeBMLgydHsAtzp633wJm-XNJj_jvKorU0ySv8VLnDnGY18w_kDECnlo4xJUxgktFzhx8hazXcHOesktoiMg-OOd4cAhDpZgHEttQrElY2Dyluxe9FDzisDRRQpzW_K-WhM_5vTagB/s1600/tutorial_coiledcoil_t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw8e_EeBMLgydHsAtzp633wJm-XNJj_jvKorU0ySv8VLnDnGY18w_kDECnlo4xJUxgktFzhx8hazXcHOesktoiMg-OOd4cAhDpZgHEttQrElY2Dyluxe9FDzisDRRQpzW_K-WhM_5vTagB/s200/tutorial_coiledcoil_t.jpg" height="80" width="200" /></a>I have tried to link back all borrowed photos to the original place. Unmarked photos are of my own work. <br />
<br />
Happy Wiring!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9Z0xsaXlILTM1VUU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Download Tutorial PDF Here</a><br />
<br />
<iframe height="480" src="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9Z0xsaXlILTM1VUU/preview" width="640"></iframe>amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-65240757430035782702011-12-27T14:49:00.000-08:002013-12-12T18:16:12.782-08:00Creating a Bail for a Pendant<br />
First and foremost, it is important to measure around the clasp of the chain you will use for your pendant to dictate the circumference required for your bail. Before you start bail construction. If you have a special clasp you want to
slide in and out, then:<br />
<br />
<b>Bail Circumference</b> <br />
Measure around the clasp with a soft measuring
tape the minimum length required to comfortably slide the clasp in and
out and then that should give you the length of X-wrap to make before
creating the loop.<br />
<br />
<code><a name='more'></a></code><br />
<b>Basic Bail Construction</b> <br />
The
basic concept of the bail is to craft about 3 cm (1.25 inch) OR REQUIRED LENGTH BASED ON YOUR CLASP MEASUREMENT of the X Wrap. Then bend the wrap around a small round object until the start of the bail section touches the beginning.
Use some of the coiling wire to secure the loop closed.<br />
<br />
Don't worry, as I am typing this article out, I have decided to do a separate tutorial on how to create a basic bail - where you can feature any preferred wrap. For now I will show examples of what I have done in the past. <br />
<br />
<br />
Creating a bail is often something I forgot to think about when I started creating pendants. Hence they became a single core wire coiled and looped around from the front of a setting to the back and anchored securely.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmj9Ozj7Vd-azPesHR0RVXqfxlVbPDO6X97w-gcWkVlAp8-BRSRGBbZ11Z4ZvXs-dDxsmrU_MCPgxOtsS-iW_DgiMsq4nmyGgTiXIcGuJVJAlfR3zOoMvJLWvLcYrMOVj2EgoRloVvtBah/s1600/bail_simple_loop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmj9Ozj7Vd-azPesHR0RVXqfxlVbPDO6X97w-gcWkVlAp8-BRSRGBbZ11Z4ZvXs-dDxsmrU_MCPgxOtsS-iW_DgiMsq4nmyGgTiXIcGuJVJAlfR3zOoMvJLWvLcYrMOVj2EgoRloVvtBah/s1600/bail_simple_loop.jpg" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8aCQGjBVjRCoAqxRB0l9Ouo2U0xjrBlcSzz59cChnkGwcIF9CynCjCfuhYcB476kWb-PVWbPOVq0mdldeKs8sEz7bHU3Br_xF8pXjnFVS6rr8vpwaLpBp3xi1Q26u5kId5LiNlpOIouf/s1600/bail_photo2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8aCQGjBVjRCoAqxRB0l9Ouo2U0xjrBlcSzz59cChnkGwcIF9CynCjCfuhYcB476kWb-PVWbPOVq0mdldeKs8sEz7bHU3Br_xF8pXjnFVS6rr8vpwaLpBp3xi1Q26u5kId5LiNlpOIouf/s1600/bail_photo2.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The trouble with this technique is when you have a beautiful complicated
pendant, sometimes that simple style of bail seems a bit of a wimp out! Although the last end of the bail can help secure a stone in place if you find the setting is still a bit loose.<br />
<br />
<br />
An amazing tutorial by wire artist Remy Heath of <a href="http://www.studioheath.com/">Studio Heath</a> teaches a great way of doing a bail built into the structure of her complicated woven pendants. I love her tutorials but it does end up giving you many wire ends you have to terminate somewhere and still end up with a tidy looking project which does not suite a small, simple design.<br />
<br />
My favourite wrap to use as a bail is the X-Wrap Weave (<a href="http://8.10.120.226/~akjewls/images/tutorial_xwrap.pdf">my free tutorial link here</a>) as it creates a very complicated yet pretty bail to add elegance to any project. <br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNiTwRfSXNKzkFomXmSZfBQSnlCvUlRiFwGgQs6LFtGcC_ID7r7xpN-mWStdclRb3-E9hfdvnEcQ3x2hUFnQ9pqBu4ZKSi0UMfREhnoJdCFuRr6ACK-rFuHubHp_UHakd5447GJRCdZ-sy/s1600/bail_opalback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNiTwRfSXNKzkFomXmSZfBQSnlCvUlRiFwGgQs6LFtGcC_ID7r7xpN-mWStdclRb3-E9hfdvnEcQ3x2hUFnQ9pqBu4ZKSi0UMfREhnoJdCFuRr6ACK-rFuHubHp_UHakd5447GJRCdZ-sy/s1600/bail_opalback.jpg" /></a>Here
is an example of the X wrap as a bail. In this pendant, I actually
started with the bail first. I took a long length of 0.8 mm (American
20) gauge wire and bent it in half around the flat needle nose plier
teeth. Then crafted 2.5 cm (1 inch) length of Xwrap weave and bent that
around a thin knitting needle to make a complete loop.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFtHj5DszOUq3yjUvj45ue8yS2t6CrV5B7mK9FHCnMq35X2_9C1DTJi6lCWaKwkfmZSC8xmsDwHyTCNbVoQbrPU2GArFd6LaNezbQ8jA73bFAPMRt6A9UQ6QGPR2-QEvpW7bZ5pOonsm_t/s1600/bail_photo3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFtHj5DszOUq3yjUvj45ue8yS2t6CrV5B7mK9FHCnMq35X2_9C1DTJi6lCWaKwkfmZSC8xmsDwHyTCNbVoQbrPU2GArFd6LaNezbQ8jA73bFAPMRt6A9UQ6QGPR2-QEvpW7bZ5pOonsm_t/s1600/bail_photo3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I tucked the
two ends back through the top of the bent start and then
continued with the rest of the project.<br />
<br />
It is also important to plan if you wish to have the back of the pendant sit flush to the body, or at angles. In this pendant, the bail will rest against the body and slant the stone down at an angle. It was done as it captured the better angle of the mosaic opal front better.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.web4business.com.au/amandasjewellery/images/pendant_heart.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"> </a></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEgq9yZ42v70G71iTuikkw8bUWGU0SeltAPLBxPLKSffWOuOqCNSftvk3Ch4Nf6uBGDMbiAo_NqhdHVkGY0fCdl-g75g9PRFRKHejx_ukaVCPvjeeWEaStZtvMQo8uFpG2WXRRpA_v37JY/s1600/bail_photo4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEgq9yZ42v70G71iTuikkw8bUWGU0SeltAPLBxPLKSffWOuOqCNSftvk3Ch4Nf6uBGDMbiAo_NqhdHVkGY0fCdl-g75g9PRFRKHejx_ukaVCPvjeeWEaStZtvMQo8uFpG2WXRRpA_v37JY/s1600/bail_photo4.jpg" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.web4business.com.au/amandasjewellery/images/pendant_silver_lapis.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>Another
example of the X Wrap as a bail constructed in the middle of the
Bezel Setting Tutorial on my site. For this bail, I literally started
with the bail first and then continued with the top half and then bottom
half of the bezel setting technique to trap the lapis lazuli cabuchon.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaeAe7NwH3vaQVvrm1zBL0PC5rtBSh3-7iB1T7ElxGeguB_X5RusmAYpqI8-_XM-J630uGitnd13tgQbGWfDMOhdCk_x9v27w_wcDERYdu7cierUBMxUXXl7Q7148kD6mfgZBkLDtCPV97/s1600/bail_photo5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaeAe7NwH3vaQVvrm1zBL0PC5rtBSh3-7iB1T7ElxGeguB_X5RusmAYpqI8-_XM-J630uGitnd13tgQbGWfDMOhdCk_x9v27w_wcDERYdu7cierUBMxUXXl7Q7148kD6mfgZBkLDtCPV97/s1600/bail_photo5.jpg" /></a>Right in the middle of the bezel setting core wire, bend it into a
perfect U shape around one tooth of the flat needle nose pliers. Then
execute 3 cm (1.25 in) of the X Wrap. Continue with the top half of the
bezel setting.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.web4business.com.au/amandasjewellery/images/pendant_silver_lapis_back.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
After
that is finished, bend the X wrap bail around a round object until it
creates a complete loop, and use part of the thinner wire to secure the
start and end of the Xwrap bail together. Then continue with the bottom
half of the bezel setting. I prefer to bend the bail towards the back
side of the pendant as sometimes the connection is not so seamless, as
you can see in the back side photo of the same lapiz lazuli pendant.<br />
<br />
Notice this bail sits higher in the back and leans up over the top of the stone. This particular bail was made so the back of the pendant would sit flush to the body.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.web4business.com.au/amandasjewellery/images/pendant_patience.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAjNYwUvwPrs_47xuFu0_C9h8X-bLp1PrnTOGmYx1lESkAZD3ck3I3BlkFw0tT8_gxg5xYKOrDve1qBn8NN6qxs2egXhUjkLaIaBOGZKuIFB7T_DJuRChmpGDl_45IJRjNm4lMRaJsbIXh/s1600/bail_photo6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAjNYwUvwPrs_47xuFu0_C9h8X-bLp1PrnTOGmYx1lESkAZD3ck3I3BlkFw0tT8_gxg5xYKOrDve1qBn8NN6qxs2egXhUjkLaIaBOGZKuIFB7T_DJuRChmpGDl_45IJRjNm4lMRaJsbIXh/s1600/bail_photo6.jpg" /></a>For the bail in the circular pendant, the bail core wire came from the start and the
finishing end of the outer circle. I took a length of sterling 1.0
mm (US 18) gauge wire and created a perfect circle around a pvc pipe and
overlapped the start and end by .5 cm (about 0.25 inch). Then bent
both ends of the wire 90 degree angle to the circle plane.<br />
<br />
0.4 mm gauge wire was then used to coil once completely around the entire circle - ensuring to coil between the 5 mm gap to fix it in place. Then I did 3 cm of X wrap on the bail and bent it towards the back.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.web4business.com.au/amandasjewellery/images/pendant_copper_greensaph.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI3OKuupvbLOvdJ8X1vR-2T46o6gA2aPYmhXFrEDNVQqOsFNstHKBkuEvIUALiu9ecpQyn7xPVKQWoKvVCJmZp1P3_8I4rbMkmcZ9s20-8j8jJR907zvu5h_tS5GjJ6J3Dg5mHFO8zgz1v/s1600/bail_photo7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI3OKuupvbLOvdJ8X1vR-2T46o6gA2aPYmhXFrEDNVQqOsFNstHKBkuEvIUALiu9ecpQyn7xPVKQWoKvVCJmZp1P3_8I4rbMkmcZ9s20-8j8jJR907zvu5h_tS5GjJ6J3Dg5mHFO8zgz1v/s1600/bail_photo7.jpg" /></a>This pendant features the smallest stone I have been able to set yet,
a 7 mm x 5 mm faceted pear shape green sapphire stone. I used coated
copper wire from an electronic enthusiast hobby supply store so it will
not tarnish.<br />
<br />
The bail core wire was 0.8 mm gauge and
coiling wire 0.4 mm gauge. The bail wires became part of the spirals
and coiled curly decoration to hide some of the uglier anchoring sites
underneath.
The bezel setting core wire was thinner 0.6 mm gauge.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Sometimes it is
easier to trap the stone separately from the bail section and literally
sew the two individual components together with wire at the end.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimXT5SfkRQAFgwG6NJxE9fO50d4djtZOIzZCZ7iQ4aHCeYIeHy5SAVSXlARrm7x13SN_PWpipO89xufXjM8cZS6G6bDOJYRzs9xF-K16fv6r3uPGTM4So_dQn8_XoFq5sNTggMZVnmwV-T/s1600/bail_photo8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimXT5SfkRQAFgwG6NJxE9fO50d4djtZOIzZCZ7iQ4aHCeYIeHy5SAVSXlARrm7x13SN_PWpipO89xufXjM8cZS6G6bDOJYRzs9xF-K16fv6r3uPGTM4So_dQn8_XoFq5sNTggMZVnmwV-T/s1600/bail_photo8.jpg" /></a>In the orange pendant photographed, I literally crafted the whole pendant in 3 separate sections. The bail top is a coiled wire section bent in the middle to create the large loop held shut by additional wire (so the loop will not open up again). The second section is the individual stone in its bezel setting wrap. The third section was the large coiled bead on the bottom. <br />
<br />
I then literally used 0.3 mm gauge wire, and the spiral ends linked together of Bail and large coil bead sections, together in the end.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-C_I7EFpO7pr8r_euqtl5hYhoN-ymwkm54XwzkcyNRaoEXaspaWEjkbC1tso_B0h4h8lcL6zW7hdty0YxQNbW_H1kRusX4-euftRv7V9MSGlw_-5P2NOQve1W7EvDDMuYyDzE0O66_2fc/s1600/bail_photo9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-C_I7EFpO7pr8r_euqtl5hYhoN-ymwkm54XwzkcyNRaoEXaspaWEjkbC1tso_B0h4h8lcL6zW7hdty0YxQNbW_H1kRusX4-euftRv7V9MSGlw_-5P2NOQve1W7EvDDMuYyDzE0O66_2fc/s1600/bail_photo9.jpg" /></a>A photo of the back shows more of the wire stitching. It also shows the back side of the bail. You can just see one section of the twisted coiling wire that looped around securing the bail loop closed.<br />
<br />
Hopefully by now you see that crafting the bail can be so much more than just buying a manufactured finding, or just a plain loop of wire. I have only shown a few ways I have crafted bails - you are only limited by your imagination!<br />
<br />
Happy wiring!amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-88957756229836545802011-12-27T14:28:00.000-08:002014-12-15T16:53:15.793-08:00X Wrap Wire Weave<span style="font-size: x-large;"><u><b>X Wrap Wire Weave</b></u></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi071QUqM3WwZnEd058hiQZy7by7_LQpPLiHZWFCkDFubOibWgi9-AW5G6muOeFPNgyXtlFuRqKZSRXaXmqBz8O6iHyNqv72ueKCtzufV5gKN-dwfzjK6bLPnahEy6HLsZrP2-_o9M0z3vX/s1600/tutorial_xwrap_t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi071QUqM3WwZnEd058hiQZy7by7_LQpPLiHZWFCkDFubOibWgi9-AW5G6muOeFPNgyXtlFuRqKZSRXaXmqBz8O6iHyNqv72ueKCtzufV5gKN-dwfzjK6bLPnahEy6HLsZrP2-_o9M0z3vX/s200/tutorial_xwrap_t.jpg" height="142" width="200" /></a>Ever needed to hide an area in wire work, or just wanted to fill in a large gap with some interesting pattern? Here is an easy way to do just that, the x-wrap (named by me for the X shape produced in the middle of the wires) is a variation on the figure 8 used in the double coil weave to produce a more open, lacy look.</div>
<br />
<a href="http://www.web4business.com.au/amandasjewellery/images/tutorial_xwrap_t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a>
The tutorial is free and contains close up photos to show exactly what is happening over 3 full pages. It is a stunning weave that makes a beautiful bail.<br />
<code></code><br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
<br />
I did not invent this wrap, but figured out how to do it and wish to share it for the rest of the wiring community. My tutorials tend to share techniques rather than patterns. One tip is to start the practice piece on a key ring which would end up being a sample for you to refer back to in the future. In a recent class I taught with the Aussie Beading Retreat group, we covered 4 of the wraps on my tutorial page and started each new wrap on the same key chain - which became a master sample key from which people can refer to in the future when planning the next project.<br />
<br />
The X Wrap definitely is a great wrap to add to your wire
techniques. The important part is that the core wire needs to be
slightly thicker than the coiling wire. You can use just about any
gauge wire (that you can work with), just keep in mind that thinner core
wires means that the bail can be squished out of shape more easily. <br />
<br />
This is my favourite wire wrap for bail construction now - discussed in a separate post <a href="http://amandajewls1.blogspot.com/2011/12/creating-bail-for-pendant.html">link here</a>.<br />
<br />
Happy Wiring!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9VFA1Z0luaUR3eVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Download Tutorial PDF </a><br />
<br />
<iframe height="480" src="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9VFA1Z0luaUR3eVE/preview" width="640"></iframe>amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-24494698908310830132011-09-29T21:04:00.000-07:002014-12-15T16:49:25.945-08:00Double Coil WeaveDouble Coil Weave<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM9bEm7yZx7QJCfEWI1KoEaCueuW_A2GichvwHPClIDQkNOAqTUXwPaglvfRcEzlCVsaUYVayK4oTWkxVVkXuiSzE0V28mRm8rZrHDXtdzmoyJx8KHKQtnMtRmFCQEh8R4lCqq5-oh3qen/s1600/tutorial_doublecoil_t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM9bEm7yZx7QJCfEWI1KoEaCueuW_A2GichvwHPClIDQkNOAqTUXwPaglvfRcEzlCVsaUYVayK4oTWkxVVkXuiSzE0V28mRm8rZrHDXtdzmoyJx8KHKQtnMtRmFCQEh8R4lCqq5-oh3qen/s200/tutorial_doublecoil_t.jpg" height="122" width="200" /></a>Ever wanted to figure out how to connect a few wires together to bring them to another side in your project? The double coil weave is a handy, pretty way to add texture to a couple of wires. Great to use doubled over as a bail as well!<br />
<br />
<br />
This tutorial will show you how to create the coil with step by step photos and tips on how to hold the wire. Better yet, it's free!<br />
<br />
<code></code><br />
<a name='more'></a><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9ck5fTktCNmlDRDQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Download Tutorial PDF</a><br /><br />
<code> </code> <br />
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_482581411"></a>
<br />
<iframe height="480" src="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9ck5fTktCNmlDRDQ/preview" width="640"></iframe>amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-76670328580551203202011-09-25T05:45:00.000-07:002014-05-31T16:01:13.583-07:00Wire Working Notes<span style="font-size: large;"><u>Wire Working Notes</u></span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQPom-jnJ8mq8-n_vWjQ78dFJ4oIVql1WzeX-VsemuhiViUadN5OqHpOi7-bq1LOCML3MZh_jNlDuxgbx1_sUCPQutBrT9EYQPXYj2pwXwJBupVxyz1ApdM1lg6gNParGeHaRX3vxKOygt/s1600/tools.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQPom-jnJ8mq8-n_vWjQ78dFJ4oIVql1WzeX-VsemuhiViUadN5OqHpOi7-bq1LOCML3MZh_jNlDuxgbx1_sUCPQutBrT9EYQPXYj2pwXwJBupVxyz1ApdM1lg6gNParGeHaRX3vxKOygt/s1600/tools.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
On my blog I have uploaded PDF files of my free wire working tutorials. An important companion is the General Notes file which contains a lot of general wire working notes.<br />
<br />
The Notes are also a companion guide to all of my tutorials, starting
with a list of terminology I use in my articles and tutorials with
definitions and reasoning behind my madness.<br />
<br />
<br />
<code></code><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
I have condensed the wire properties information and wire working tips available in my blog and various other media I teach from into one file for quick reference. This is data that has taken me since 2003 to learn the hard way - slogging through many different articles, library books and trial and error (and a few pricked fingers).<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi-4DNU0GX_hozuOBiZUIQlt77bCjYlT2Z9Sk6ej9FNQJxm3cRb7QpnlCvzI4VeS2twPhgxba4soqtKVpywhXtFL8UtGYaZep2St0zhwbS2BrdGquTsFjVSd2L0C0QUInotMJxP4NgLd52/s1600/P4240847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi-4DNU0GX_hozuOBiZUIQlt77bCjYlT2Z9Sk6ej9FNQJxm3cRb7QpnlCvzI4VeS2twPhgxba4soqtKVpywhXtFL8UtGYaZep2St0zhwbS2BrdGquTsFjVSd2L0C0QUInotMJxP4NgLd52/s320/P4240847.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a>The article starts off with a thorough look into wire properties such as shapes available and how to read the measurements when purchasing from an online shop. Gauge is shown complete with a chart for quick reference. There is an introduction to understanding why wire becomes brittle and breaks and a guide to wire hardness. Most importantly, you will learn how to choose the correct wire for the job expected. <br />
<br />
Then the article goes on to include a few short tutorials on ways to
handle wire as you work on bigger projects. I show how to start a new
core wire into an existing project, when sometimes you just need a wire right
there. It is also shown how to keep your work tidy, begin and end new weaving or coiling wires and keep tension consistent while coiling.<br />
<br />
Good luck and welcome to the wonderful world of wire working, it's very addicting!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH8aNUHrg1my2CqTgKcapNxTU-u3Fpg-9tErlkU3JZNX4dDg6-HxU6klrgp1IEfWDDa4a0KtoHOKif1GFf-IOajCAU_yVRegDfcdyk89FTfwBKpleWno0r4ewijsZC3JzYclTzs6RVkRsu/s1600/start1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH8aNUHrg1my2CqTgKcapNxTU-u3Fpg-9tErlkU3JZNX4dDg6-HxU6klrgp1IEfWDDa4a0KtoHOKif1GFf-IOajCAU_yVRegDfcdyk89FTfwBKpleWno0r4ewijsZC3JzYclTzs6RVkRsu/s1600/start1.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX_8OMKwSG5kkYJZCz1PudNhyNGHyA8gXjaUauMZi1BW9cFueZyJKIpJbGmHUr7GLOcYHxbu_Ic-Fgx0vkG0UeUqrcCeQssBq_ZEcPUvr3ZwxmA6v_Zo-eF7yckjwXI4_sT2OpMbfb5Umb/s1600/tidywire.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX_8OMKwSG5kkYJZCz1PudNhyNGHyA8gXjaUauMZi1BW9cFueZyJKIpJbGmHUr7GLOcYHxbu_Ic-Fgx0vkG0UeUqrcCeQssBq_ZEcPUvr3ZwxmA6v_Zo-eF7yckjwXI4_sT2OpMbfb5Umb/s1600/tidywire.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
PDF Link follows below:<br />
<br />
<h2>
<span style="color: #38761d;"><b><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9NFVHTUhaQXl4Smc/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wire Working Notes PDF</a></b></span></h2>
<h3>
</h3>
<br />
<br />
<iframe height="480" src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByIs11l0Inb9NFVHTUhaQXl4Smc/preview" width="640"></iframe>
amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0Sydney, NSW 2000-33.9433599465788 151.171875-37.3008109465788 146.118164 -30.5859089465788 156.225586tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-12516650761550674492011-07-16T17:54:00.000-07:002013-12-12T18:17:39.111-08:00Basic Loop, Wrapped Loop TutorialsThis week I want to put the limelight on an amazing designer, Lorri Ely of <a href="http://www.making-jewelry.com/">www.making-jewelry.com</a>, who has put all of her hard earned knowledge about beaded jewellery basics on her website for free. And what a website, she explores stringing techniques, earring makings, even how to sell your jewellery in various venues and tips on running a jewellery business.<br />
<br />
This is a site I wholeheartedly wish was available when I started making jewellery over 20 years ago! But then again, the internet was not what it is these days either.<br />
<code><a name='more'></a></code> <br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Basic Loops</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ2qpgCt5CtCFsp4zwCkDjukJ0pnK5GZTIDPhXnzGSG5YdoqMNVsPc0UQ99w-3hJ5OdwCHECTfFAzq6jKICogqgGOgushlmVlaYjRaMZExrlAHZrsS5tRsZ6dAOfVvc0or83zyg5kFmGvK/s1600/earrings_spiral_brass.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ2qpgCt5CtCFsp4zwCkDjukJ0pnK5GZTIDPhXnzGSG5YdoqMNVsPc0UQ99w-3hJ5OdwCHECTfFAzq6jKICogqgGOgushlmVlaYjRaMZExrlAHZrsS5tRsZ6dAOfVvc0or83zyg5kFmGvK/s200/earrings_spiral_brass.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="http://www.web4business.com.au/amandasjewellery/images/earrings_big_purple.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a>The most basic wire working is the basic loop. This is literally a circle at the end of the wire with which to connect the wire to anything such as an earring finding, or attach a new wire to a project. The earrings to the left are some I have created only using basic loops.<br />
<br />
But what if you do not know how to create this technique?<br />
<br />
Lorri has written clear, easy to follow instruction for doing a <a href="http://www.making-jewelry.com/How-to-Make-a-Basic-Wire-Wrap-Loop.html">basic loop</a> complete with good photos. And read her tips on using round needle nose pliers!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Wrapped Loops</span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_BvksJpMmQvisUoMFiaTV7Hjp-QuG5IGz_9Qe30rxbma9hjPEi0brOzIR1SxshRNDca0Sw-2M3c7m9VIDhLQuJcFvMgYeD4kJ7Nvct1R-GsFQtBBnSuW-Tk0z16fUNOdE9MZFV4LhFNbn/s1600/earring_coolice_blue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_BvksJpMmQvisUoMFiaTV7Hjp-QuG5IGz_9Qe30rxbma9hjPEi0brOzIR1SxshRNDca0Sw-2M3c7m9VIDhLQuJcFvMgYeD4kJ7Nvct1R-GsFQtBBnSuW-Tk0z16fUNOdE9MZFV4LhFNbn/s200/earring_coolice_blue.jpg" width="85" /></a><a href="http://www.web4business.com.au/amandasjewellery/images/clearcrystal_necklace.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a>Her longer instructions on how to<a href="http://www.making-jewelry.com/How-to-Wire-Wrap-a-Beaded-Chain.html"> make a wrapped loop</a> beaded chain strand again are filled with great tips on how to hold your hands and what to do with everything.<br />
<br />
Her instructions cover how to make the basic wrapped loop and then go on to show how to make a wrapped loop strand like the piece I have created photographed to the left.<br />
<br />
The wrapped loop is a very elegant and secure technique to use, but one which I recommend is best practiced 20 - 40 times before creating any jewellery.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGmtmYcR_xFXfsCZJXLGnMI49WZjVufP6eI86RFdWHEENtmtODkjStFopgj94m1QeU1yPXlXZBbtXWz1r8LC4AZc3jI-gq2pSPnONfktXa5-GUo7SxsBNqiibbHrxOQYx6_9ypQ8cjvCMx/s1600/secure.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630125826149073538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGmtmYcR_xFXfsCZJXLGnMI49WZjVufP6eI86RFdWHEENtmtODkjStFopgj94m1QeU1yPXlXZBbtXWz1r8LC4AZc3jI-gq2pSPnONfktXa5-GUo7SxsBNqiibbHrxOQYx6_9ypQ8cjvCMx/s200/secure.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 132px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 150px;" /></a><br />
In order to snug down wire ends on the wrapped loop after clipping waste with wire cutters, use the flat needle nose pliers (tips are more slender for tight spaces) and turn the pliers in the same direction as the wrapped coil. Repeat until you cannot feel the wire tip any more poking out.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Oza5ZZnTYa1k-u3SgLvV_OmqdB2Kc-XoxNKpjPNuW1PuX89x52AQxwKZwQHh59I-p17wDYLHTOij7H_joNPjUPImdMAMXTZ8SeSmxynKloLD8mu3AzXocz9O-YU3Gh9mSSsY-ALjf0RS/s1600/earring_cluster_pink.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Oza5ZZnTYa1k-u3SgLvV_OmqdB2Kc-XoxNKpjPNuW1PuX89x52AQxwKZwQHh59I-p17wDYLHTOij7H_joNPjUPImdMAMXTZ8SeSmxynKloLD8mu3AzXocz9O-YU3Gh9mSSsY-ALjf0RS/s200/earring_cluster_pink.jpg" width="146" /></a></div>
<a href="http://www.web4business.com.au/amandasjewellery/images/earring_cluster_pink.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a>A third pertinent wire tutorial that Lorri has featured is what do to with those danged top sideways drilled beads that are so pretty! <a href="http://www.making-jewelry.com/How-to-Wire-Wrap-a-Briolette.html">How to wrap a briolette</a> is one of the most frustrating techniques to master and her instructions and photographs make it all the easier to learn.<br />
<br />
Take the time if you are new to beading to really go through Lorri's website - it is an amazing treasure trove of hints, techniques and project ideas. There is a free online community as well.<br />
<br />
Keep on beading!amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7145800099897356376.post-85205878558954046702011-07-08T21:05:00.000-07:002011-07-08T21:07:45.493-07:00Starting a New Coiling Wire<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3rZSplyf7JUuAivnlC76rrArJFbUBpy3qWc8PttechOJ99CDzKNcJ0ZL2d9YhM0tFUk129sZvTHz_kHUm5I_Dh4IxGzZb9707FEFrfKzzmPQRig3JyAKIq5M8nctcjYIMvUamAY8CckO-/s1600/start8.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 195px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3rZSplyf7JUuAivnlC76rrArJFbUBpy3qWc8PttechOJ99CDzKNcJ0ZL2d9YhM0tFUk129sZvTHz_kHUm5I_Dh4IxGzZb9707FEFrfKzzmPQRig3JyAKIq5M8nctcjYIMvUamAY8CckO-/s200/start8.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5627199367575957890" border="0" /></a><br />This week is a step by step instruction for working with wire.<br /><br />Often you are doing a coil and run out of the coiling wire before you are ready.<br /><br />Don't fret, it is easy to learn how to make a seamless join between two wires in this situation.<br /><br />As it is a step by step, I have made an instructable for the process:<br /><br />Link is here: <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Start-New-Thin-Coil-Wire/">http://www.instructables.com/id/Start-New-Thin-Coil-Wire/</a>amandajewlshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08816049031094821621noreply@blogger.com0